Spruced Up Waxed Canvas Jacket

                      

                         

Have you sewn with waxed canvas before? I love the look if it on bags and jackets and bought some wax with the plan of treating fabric to make my own. The wax and fabric have remained untouched in my sewing room since December waiting for the motivation to begin the work.

                                 

         

Fabric Funhouse, my source for cork fabric, now sells high quality waxed canvas in a range of colors.  

                                      

I was approached by the company to make a jacket for their booth at the upcoming The International Quilt Festival in Houston. Because they are awesome, I agreed. I could not decide which color I liked best, so I asked them to surprise me with whatever they wanted. They chose well and I was sent the fabric in a rich garnet color. It is a color I love and wear often in my lipstick.

As you all know, I love fabric painting and bold prints; I rarely wear solid colors. I read on the website that the "wax does not transfer or migrate onto other fabrics, leathers and your designer linings." This gave me the idea that the wax permeates the fabric, rather than sit on top of it. I figured it would respond favorably to stencil painting. It was a risky proposition because typical printed waxed fabrics have the wax added after the print is laid. After a couple of successful test swatches, I was convinced I wanted to do it.

I usually like to airbrush paint my fabric. In anticipation of readers wanting to try this technique, I opted for a more accessible paint method. I used 4 cans of Tulip Color Shot Fabric Paint in Pewter Shimmer. It is available on amazon and in craft stores. If you follow me on Instagram, you know the saga and my hoarding of this now discontinued color.

I painted the design of my new Cobbles stencil on the cut fabric pieces of a modified Simplicity 8298. To maximize efficiency, I stitched three of my felt stencils together along the long edges to make a larger stencil. I applied a light layer spray adhesive to the back of the stencil before setting it on the fabric. This helps give sharp edges to the motifs and prevents paint for getting under the stencil during spraying. The paint was applied in multiple light layers to give even coverage. After completing an area, I re-positioned the stencil, covered the already painted area and continued painting until done.

When working with waxed canvas, special considerations are needed. A full list of care and considerations can be found here, some bullet points are below:

1. Expect creases, cracks and texture on the fabric surface
2. Use clips, not pins to hold your fabric
3. Use a press cloth and clapper if you must press it
4. Press on medium heat
5. Use a size 100/16 or 100/18 needle
6. Use at least a 3mm stitch length and heavy duty thread
7. Clean your machine to remove any build-up after and replace your needle                                          

As I mentioned, I modified Simplicity 8298 for this jacket. It is written for  pre-quilted fabrics, but I liked the simple shape and minimal seam lines so I tweaked it to work for this. I opted to make a lined version of view C with the length of view A. I added side seam pockets instead of the visible ones given.

                      

I basically made an exterior from the canvas and another from a basic black broadcloth. I get confused every time I do it, so I refer to the bagged lining method demonstrated on this blog. 

It makes for a clean finish on the inside and out.

 

I am really pleased with this jacket! I tested it on a rainy day and its water repellent qualities worked like a charm! The paint is durable and was worth the gamble. I feel like stencil painting opens up so many design possibilities with this fabric.

 

I cut the size medium based on my measurements. Because I did not use prequilted fabric and the stiffness of the canvas, I think it looks a smidge too big in these photos. That being said, it feels comfortable to wear and I am certain with fall layering it will be fine.  

If you will be at Quilt Fest, you can see this jacket close up at the Fabric Funhouse booth. I will be out and about when not helping at The Paradiso Designs booth (947). If you see me, please say hello. 

Happy Sewing,
Bianca