A Dress Called Harvey: Flour Resist Painted Fabric for the Fabric Mart Challenge

As you may have read in my previous post, I live in Pearland, Texas, and we were affected by Hurricane Harvey. We experienced 51 inches of rainfall in 4 days, and we watched as flooding devastated our community. Following the directives of city leaders, we hunkered down, and we hoped, prayed, and watched the rising water. Though it was touch and go with the rising waters, my home ultimately did not flood like the hundreds of thousands impacted in my community.

I was notified of this challenge's rules as Hurricane Harvey was a developing into a tropical storm in the Gulf of Mexico.  I told Fabric Mart that I would participate in the challenge until I was unable to do so. The water rose, and my anxiety and fear rose alongside it. We were told not to leave our home, so I retreated to my sewing room. 

This first challenge is to transform a 2-yard "blank slate" of cotton muslin. I chose to use the muslin as a canvas to focus some of my emotions (i.e., fear, gratitude, grief, and guilt) related to the storm and the aftermath. 

I am not new to embellishing fabric in fun, playful ways to express what is in my heart and mind. I have ice dyed cotton jersey for a maxi dress. I have airbrush painted my Afro diva dress, Peace, Puff, Afro Love bag and Afro Puff Diva dress for Little Miss. I have used multiple hand embroidery and applique techniques in my embellished shower curtain skirt.

I like my clothes to express elements of my personality or emotions. That usually results in happy-looking pieces. Sewing usually lifts my spirits and allows me to shift focus in moments of sadness. I currently feel broken. I am living in a broken city around broken friends and neighbors. With nowhere to go, I took to my sewing room. I contemplated how to show brokenness on fabric and to find a sewing pattern reflecting putting pieces back together. 

Because of the storm, I was unable to shop for supplies to transform my fabric. I decided to use what I had on hand in my sewing space and pantry. It gave me a chance to try a "flour-resist" technique (see below for further details). A paste is applied to the base fabric. The fabric is dried overnight and cracked to expose the fabric beneath. Fabric paint is then applied, and it seeps between the cracks. After the paint dries overnight, the flour is removed to show the painted fabric beneath. This is a labor-intensive process involving saturation, breaking and cleansing.

The colors in the fabrics are black, blue, and gold. Black and blue represents the devastation left by Harvey. The paint effect is stronger in some areas and varies in strength throughout the fabric. I did this to represent the wide continuum of impact of Harvey on people who have been affected. The crackle can be interpreted as rising water and escalating emotions during the slow progression of the storm. 

First responders and ordinary people with boats and trucks risked their lives to save people in immediate danger as the water rose. They are represented in a layer of gold painted directly on the muslin. 

A second layer of gold overlaps the blue and black to represent love and out-pouring of local, national, and global support. It recognizes those who provided food, shelter, clothing, and ongoing cleanup in the aftermath of Harvey. 

The McCalls 6028 pattern does not reflect my everyday style, but it communicates what I feel. I wanted a pattern with multiple seam lines to represent separation, structure, connection, and regrouping. 

                          

The black piping represents the common thread we share, the boundaries of overrun banks, and released reservoirs. The piping also reflects the inaccessibility of streets and the need to feel supported in difficult times.  

This fabric is unlike anything I have made before. It is chaotic. It is messy. It is confusing. It is hard to look at, but it has more to show. This dress is organised, structured, detailed, and precise. It is purposeful and serves to calm the disorder.    

The fabric is designed using the "flour-resist" technique described here:

1. Make a flour paste with a 1:1 flour/water ratio. A good starting point is 2 cups of flour per yard of fabric. Stir until there are no lumps and it looks like melted ice cream. Lay your fabric on a protected surface and smooth the paste over areas to be treated on the right side of the fabric. 
2. Allow the fabric to dry completely overnight. Do not dry outdoors unless it can be protected from insects and vermin. 
3. The edges will curl, and the fabric will become board stiff.
4. Bend, fold, and twist the fabric to crack the flour surface. The more cracks you make, the more the paint will permeate to the base fabric.
5. Paint the fabric with fabric paint using a sponge dauber.
6. Check the backside to see if the paint is showing through the backside sufficiently. If you are not satisfied, add more. If you plan on using multiple colors, apply the light colors first. Allow that layer to dry, re-crack, and apply the subsequent colors drying in between. Allow the paint to dry completely before the next step.                                                                     
7. To remove the paste and paint layer, submerge the fabric in a bucket or kitchen sink of water just until you can scrape it away. 
8. Wring excess water out of the fabric and lay it on a protected surface. Using a blunt tool like a spatula, or putty knife, scrape the flour and paint away and dispose of it in the trash. 
9. Lightly hand-wash any remaining flour from the fabric and dry. Heat set the paint with an iron or the method directed by your paint instructions. 

This is a labor-intensive, slow process involves layering, saturating, breaking and cleansing. I thought it was an appropriate metaphor for my experience. This was a wonderfully therapeutic exercise for me. My family provided encouragement and guidance along the way.  The waters are receding, schools and businesses are reopening and people are on the road to recovery. It will take time, but HoUSton is strong.

To see what the other contestants made and to vote click here.

Healing sewing,
Bianca

Hurricane Harvey: A Good Cry and Sew Therapy

Hello friends, I just want to write a quick note about Hurricane Harvey. This will be brief because I am overwhelmed and still processing it all.

As you have likely seen, the Gulf Coast has been devastated by catastrophic flooding due to the Hurricane. I live in Pearland, a suburb of Houston. Our family decided to shelter in place and ride the storm out. We stocked provisions and prepared for the worse we could imagine. We did not expect 57 inches of rain and days of worry and anxiety. In the end, our family came out better than most. The nearby streets are flooded, but thankfully no water entered our home.

Today the rain has stopped and the sun is shining. We have limited access beyond 2 or 3 streets and the lines at the few open businesses are out the doors. With all we have experienced and watched others go through, the clear sky brought me to tears. We are all balls of emotion feeling gratitude, grief and guilt all at the same time.

                               

We are anxious to be useful, but are limited in what we can do physically. We have made monetary donations to send some support to those displaced. If you wish to do so, here is a list  of organizations that can use your support. When we are able, we will get out and help where we can.  In the meantime. I will do some soul-mending with sewing for myself and others. A friend has lost most of her first floor to flooding. All of her soft surfaces, curtains and cushions will need to replaced. We will get together to restore her home and spirit.

If you follow on Instagram or Facebook, you may know I was one of six sewing bloggers selected as contestants in the Fabric Mart Fabricista Fashion Challenge. It is a month long sewing competition with specific challenges each week. I was excited to be chosen, but considered withdrawing as the storm approached. Now that it is over, I have decided to continue in the challenge. I have this tension and nervous energy that I hope I can channel creatively. This contest may be welcome distraction I need. 

Thank you for your prayers and support for HoUSton. We feel them and I appreciate it.

Bianca   

Craigslist: A Source for Vintage Patterns, Fabrics and Sewing Supplies.

A big thank you to those of you who tuned in to my interview on "That Sewing Blab". I had a good time chatting and answering questions. As promised, here are the steps to get up to the minute alerts on Craigslist for patterns, fabric, machines of whatever you like.  I have also included items I have recently purchased at a recent estate sale. It is proof that these alerts pay off. (I am so sorry for the photo quality. I was having trouble with my phone for clear screenshots. I went old school and took pictures of my monitor. You will get the idea.)  

Open Craigslist for your city and enter the search terms you want.

Your search results will open.

To the right of the search bar, click "save search". 

Log in or create an account

Your search criteria will be confirmed as saved

Your alerts will remain in your account until you delete them. If you want a break from alerts, you can turn them off and on.

I have built my fabric and pattern stash at reasonable cost over the years through my Craigslist purchases. Last month, I received a late night alert about an estate sale for a seamstress in a nearby city that was happening the next day. After reading the details of merchandise, I knew I had to go and be there when it openned.

I ended up making two trips to the sale and scored big! The first trip was to be sure I got what I wanted. The second trip was a leisurely one without my kids. Because I was friendly, enthusiastic and made friends with the staff the day before, I got great deals on the second trip.

I love this iron! I suggest you set an alert to snag one of these if it comes available.

Wiss brand scissors, pinking shears and sewing pins.

Rare (and awesome) June Tailor Pattern Weights and an expandable Gauge

Sewing Books for $1

This is just one of the fabric tables I took my pick from.

There were hundreds of patterns and I looked at everyone!  Scroll below to see what I got. 

There was a wealth of items that I admired, but decided to pass on. I set a budget and wanted to stay within it. I had to consider the available space at home and my mortality. This Bernina Cover-stitch/Serger combo however, was hustling hard to join my family. I have a serger and have been wishing for a coverstitch. I had to utilize my "phone a friend" option to have her talk some sense into me. She wisely advised against the purchase. Apparently, owners prefer separate machines and don't like switching between the two. It was still available on the second day at $200 less than the day before. I have no regrets passing on this one.

                                   

As I shopped, I chatted with other sewists. We admired the sellers stash and vowed to honor her with our makes. We all reflected on the fact that someday we will leave our stashes behind. We promised to try to pass our passion onto others so our treasures can bring joy to our loved ones. Knowing that is not always possible, we delighted in the thrills we will bring to bargain-hunting sew sisters like ourselves.

    

Happy sewing,

Bianca                                

Falling in Love With Caftans

You guys! You will have to stop me from making my new love, caftans. I know you may be thinking I am nuts for loving these shapeless frocks, but I do.

Photos taken by my 8 year old :) 

For better or worse, I grew up watching Mrs. Roper on Three's Company. Her Bohemian  clothes, along with her attitude subconsciously imprinted on my fashion sense.

  

I own many caftan patterns and discovered that I had 2 Simplicity 5315 in my stash and knew it was time to get one made.

                                  

This pattern requires almost 4 yards of 60-inch fabric. I had 4-yards of a fun black and white stripe fabric in my stash. It is a rayon/lyrca jersey that I bought from Fabric Mart a year ago. 

  

The fabric has a combination of wide and thin stripes across its width. I played with the placement using the thin ones on the upper bodice, wide ones on the skirt and a cut of black for the midriff.  

  

The back of the dress required no manipulation of the print of the fabric.

I really enjoy sewing older patterns because I learn so much. Before sewing this up, I was curious about how the armhole would be finished.

                           

I had concerns that the weight of my knit would make the opening flimsy, but it turned out great!  

Many caftans are voluminous AND shapeless. This one has some built in shaping that makes it more appealing. The midriff can be adjusted inside with seam binding ties that wraps and is secured around the body.

  

That feature along with deep V-neck makes this one a winner.

I think if Mrs. Roper wore this caftan, she wouldn't have had to work so hard to get some loving from Mr. Roper.

I will be making more caftans for sure. I am not sure if it will be from this pattern or if I will try the others in my stash. If you look closely at the photo above, you will see a line at my knee. After two knee surgeries last year, one on each knee, I am wearing braces daily. It has been very discouraging to live with chronic pain and feel out of control with my body. I have not been able to get in minimal daily step requirements or do cardio exercise for most of the year. Daily frustrations, weight gain and pain forced me to be a stronger advocate for my health. I demanded more from my doctor and my new braces are part of  my new treatment plan. They are unattractive but helping my physical and mental health. 

I love that I sew. I can make clothes to suit my physical needs and provide a creative outlet. My future sewing will include more maxi length dresses, tunics and caftans. Lucky for me, injury or not, that's what I like.

Side note: Be sure to sign in to my interview on That Sewing Blab on Tuesday. See the previous post for all the details.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca