Peplums Please!

Peplums have been trending this year and I have quite a few patterns in my stash. The Fall Collection of the McCalls Patten Company was recently released and they are showcasing them for fall. I was drawn to  Pattern 6844, a lightweight cardigan with hem variations.

McCalls 6844

As with most patterns I sew, I take a critical eye to it to see if I can make it in Alabama Chanin style. This cardigan was no exception. I decided to sew it in a double layer of hunter green jersey cotton from my stash. I used a double layer of fabric for all pieces with the exception of the facing and the peplum.  I have skinny arms and I wanted the sleeves to be fitted. I decided to sew the sleeves with a 1-inch seam allowance. I used my dress form to be certain to get the correct upper sleeve fit.

The Alabama Chanin company is moving to a machine sewn line called A. Chanin. Because are sewing some items on a machine, I could as well. I decided to sew the interior themes of this project on the sewing machine. I use a knit needle and a long stitch length and it came together pretty fast. I chose to sew all of the secondary stitches by hand using hunter green button and craft thread. I felled the seams to the interior of the coat and kept my knots hidden.

Tone on Tone stitches

The pattern instructions required interfacing on the facing pieces but I didn't think it was necessary. I used it here, but I think next time I will not. Also, the pattern claims that the front  does not meet but I did not find this to be the case. I made the size small and the found there was enough fabric to lap over itself. I think I need to think about way to keep it closed. I will wear it for a bit and see what needs to happen; maybe a belt, maybe hooks and eyes.

B.I.R.A Wearing the Cardigan

 I'm really excited with how they turned out it. I have gotten many complements and requests for custom orders. It is super comfy and great for twirling!

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!

Happy Sewing!

Beaded Alabama Chanin Polka Dot Sampler

Hello, my name is Bianca and I am an addict. All the readers say "Hi Bianca!" In my varied and storied career I have spent some time as an Addictions Counselor, Case Manager, and Group Leader, so I know the signs. I can unequivocally say I am addicted to sewing Alabama Chanin garments. They are beautiful, creative, and wonderfully detailed. I work multiple garments at a time relishing the various techniques required for each. I have many garments cut and queued waiting their turn to be stitched. I have a longer queue of garments I dream of sewing, but have yet to cut. 
I am in constant need of a fix. I was at a doctor's appointment and required to wait. The waiting grew longer and more difficult to endure because I didn't have anything to sew! I kept thinking, I could have stitched four circles by now! Call my name! (BREATHE).  I recall the tools I have been trained to use and I have learned to always have something handy. :)
 

There is a Mini Wardrobe Contest running over on Pattern Review.com. The contest requires participants to complete four garments that must combine (without adding additional garments) to create at least 4 looks. I have entered and plan to  sew a mini Alabama Chanin Wardrobe. I plan to make a dress, a jacket, a top, and skirt to produce the following 4 looks: Dress; dress/jacket; skirt/top; skirt/top/jacket.

The kicker is that I have one month to do it! I know it is insane. I have been working on this dress for almost a year; what am I thinking? In any case, I started mentally planning my entries when the contest was announced. On September 1, I began my sewing of the top entry.

I wanted to work on my beading techniques and decided to  use my top as a sampler. I used the t-shirt pattern from the Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing and Design book. I used my polka dot stencil to add the shapes to a single layer of slate grey cotton jersey.

Polka Dot Stencil

Dots applied.

I got to work on the embellishments. I used red embroidery floss to work reverse back stitches to serve as the foundation of the polka dots. I then used an assortment of seed, chop, bugle, beads and sequins to create various beaded arrangements.

These patterns combined to create this finished top. It is hand-stitched with slate button and craft thread. The seams are felled to the inside and top-stitched. The neckline is bound using a Cretan stitch.

I am satisfied with the outcome of the top at this point. I may add more sequins and beads in the spaces over time. If I get the other entries completed, I may add them before the contest ends! Bahahahaha! What grandiose thinking! I need a meeting!

Happy Sewing!
Bianca