Challenge Accepted! Day and Night Dress Blog Tour

Happy New Year!

I hope you all have had a wonderful holiday season with the ones you love. I had an enjoyable time with my family. I have been working on my contribution to the Day and Night Dress Challenge hosted by Elizabeth Made This. 

Typically, I am a jeans and t-shirt kind of woman. When I wear dresses, they 

are usually shift or Mod style in bold prints. As my children get to big to be picked up and carried, I can now begin to expand my dress options. I have pinned thousands of dresses that I want to add to my wardrobe. When Elizabeth asked me to be a part of the inspiration team for her challenge, I was flattered and excited to have a reason to make one of these dresses.

Going into this challenge I knew I wanted to sew from my stash. I pulled a Vlisco Super Wax fabric that I bought last year and had planned to sew before buying more. I didn't keep that promise, but I came close.  I bought it in a 6-yard cut and planned to use most of it in a maxi length wrap dress. 

I chose to make McCalls 7185 in a sleeveless version of view c. I modified it by lengthening it to the floor and extending it by an additional 22 inches. The construction was pretty straightforward for most of it. I however, just about lost my mind on the waistband construction on step 20. I have mentioned before, that I have spacial orientation issues at times. It took me three times of stitching to figure out that the bodice facing needed to be flipped up toward the bodice and not down. When I figured that out, which is obvious to me now, it went along without a hitch.

A few of the dresses I admired on Pinterest had tie belts so I thought I would add one. Now that it is all made up, I don't think I need it. It is lost in the print. In addition to the tie belt, I added side seam pockets and I am so glad I did.

I was slow to make a maxi length Ankara wax print dress before now. I was worried that it would be too much of a good thing. Because the fabric is thicker than regular cotton it feels like a lot of fabric. I was also concerned that there would be too much bulk when worn. I am pleased to say if feels just right.

                         

Now that I have made this, I think it is the right balance of print, pattern and visible skin (the "girls" don't normally see this much daylight).  

      

I love this dress! It has satisfied my long held dress envy and I don't know why I waited so long.
                   

       

"I like to party and by party I mean stay at home and sew." I can relate to that quote so much. I don't have much of a night life and I have no complaints about it. I do however, get an occasional whim to have a glamorous night on the town. If I were to follow that whim, I would have nothing to wear. I welcomed the opportunity to add an evening dress to my wardrobe. 

I loved the dress I made for a friend to wear for her 60th birthday party using McCalls 7047. To satisfy my dress envy for that one, I decided to make a version for myself. I would have loved to make it in the same sequin fabric of the pattern cover and my friend's dress. The cost of that fabric and my lack of an occasion to wear the dress, I couldn't justify the cost. Instead, I found a Casa Embellish knit that is a cotton/poly/metallic blend. It has a soft drape and is lighter than the sequin fabric I used for that dress. It is light enough that I also used it as the lining for the skirt portion of the dress.

I made the dress straight from the pattern with no significant adjustments. I omitted the waistline elastic however, because the stretch of the fabric made it unnecessary. I hemmed the dress on my serger to make a rolled hem.

I really like my dress, but must admit to feeling a bit self conscious with how close fitting it is. I don't know what to do with my hands. 

I love that the cowl neckline can be worn on/off the shoulders as well as asymmetrically. 

To add a bit of pizzazz to the dress, I added a crystal belt. Now that it is photographed, I am on the fence about wearing it in real life. I think I prefer it without.

 

As I satisfied my dress envy with this one, I hope I have given you some.

                               
If I have, why not join Elizabeth's challenge today?  As a participant, you have the chance to win great prizes. In addition to that, some of the sponsors are offering discounts on their fabrics and patterns. Please let me know in the comments if you are taking the challenge.

Be sure to check our all the other participants in the blog tour for your dress envy: 

Sunday, Jan 8th: Elizabeth of Elizabeth Made This, Brittany of Brittany J Jones

Monday, Jan 9th:  Maria of How Good is That?,  Tonya of Sew So Petite

Tuesday, Jan 10th: Je’Tua of Robertswife, Meg of Cookin’ and Craftin’, Melanie of Its Melanie Darling

Wednesday, Jan 11th:  Linda of Elle Gee Makes, Tee of Maggie Elaine

Thursday, Jan 12th: Bianca of Thanks! I Made Them Sew Can You, Daniela of On the Cutting Floor

Friday, Jan 13th:  Melissa of Mahlicadesigns, Rachel of Sew Redy, Renata of Runnningnstyle, Sonja of Sewing ala Carte

Saturday, Jan 14th: Doja of Elewa blog, Judith of Judith Dee’s World, Tanya of Mrs. Hughes

Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Haute Shorts and Bias Trim Babydoll Top in Ankara!

It is Summer and that means the need for cool, comfortable and easy clothes. I love cute shorts and fun tops. I have been dying to use some of the Ankara fabric I purchased earlier this year.  Lisa at Pattern and Branch made a pair of Ankara shorts that I thought were so adorable. Following her inspiration, I used the same pattern she did, but mine were not as flattering on me as hers. I searched my stash to find an alternative pattern for my shorts.

I found my Simplicity 1373 pattern that I used to make this tie back top here and liked the look of the shorts. They are simple shorts close fitting shorts with a side zipper.

                                   

I made the shorts in the size 12 with no fit adjustments. I made them as instructed except, I omitted the side slit at the hem and installed an invisible zipper. These shorts were easy to make and the instructions ere easy to follow. I like that these shorts are streamlined and no fuss. I like the length/ ease ratio on these. They are just short enough, while remaining decent and just loose enough, to not be bulky.

  

                   

The babydoll top is made using Simplicity 1693 and trimmed in bias tape made in the Ankara fabric. I cut a size 12 and I found it is too big. It is meant to be loose, but the fit reminds me a maternity top. I think the weight of the cotton may account for the drape. I made one in a rayon and it falls well. I will post a photo wearing it on laundry day. 

                                 

                

I have tried to make continuous bias tape from a fat quarter and never had any luck. I get lost with the lines and cutting direction. I find I have much better luck using a quilt binder ruler. You lay the angle of the ruler on your straight edge of the fabric to get bias. My ruler makes 2.5 inch strips.       

I then passed the through my tape maker and pressed them.

I encased the neckline and armscyes in the trim and sewed. I should have accounted for the hems in those areas and trimmed them down; next time.                     

   

(Carrying my Coffee Bean Bag)

All in all, I love the shorts! The fit works for me and it has a simple silhouette. I will be making these again. I like the top okay, but will not make it in a cotton again. I may try it again in a very drapey fabric.

     

  

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

                                 

  

African Print Coat with Leather Sleeves

I have mentioned before my love of African Wax fabric and designers who use them. I have pinned a million and one garments that inspire me. Pattern Review was hosting a  Bargainista Fashionista Contest  this month. I entered it at the start of the month with the plan to make something truly spectacular based on designs of the items I pinned. My lofty plans deflated a bit as I got super busy, but I was still determined to complete an entry.

Based on fabric and patterns in my stash, I used a Stella Jean coat as my inspiration for my project.

Back on BIRA

Pocket

Lining

I used Simplicity 2311 as my base because it is a misses coat in two lengths with sleeve, collar, and belt variations. The basic silhouette is the same and the pattern has a large collar.
                                           

For fabric, I used an African wax fabric from Ghana. I was given it as a gift by a friend I taught to sew. I have had the fabric for years, but never used it. The design looked naughty to me (look again, do you will see it?). My hubby says it is in my head and that he does not see what I see, so I decided to finally use the fabric. For the lining, I used a polyester fabric from my stash.  After laying out my fabric, it was 1/8 a yard short for the sleeves. I recalled seeing a Burberry coat with contrast leather sleeves and decided to go that way. I chose to sew the sleeves with repurposed leather.

I did not like the instructions in this pattern. The jumped around so much, I felt I needed to put all of my energy into understanding it. I like background noise when I sew. Sometimes it is an audiobook, or  television show or a movie. I had to stop watching The Shawshank Redemption, a movie I know by heart, to not miss an instruction. It was very frustrating. I have never had issues with Simplicity PR patterns and assumed these would work like others in the past. These were the worst; I hate them like broccoli. The pattern was not completely bad. The lining instructions were better than others I have seen. 

I would sew this type of coat again, but not with this pattern. I am sure there are easier to read patterns out there. 

The Stella Jean coat cost $1190 

My coat 

$45 estimate for the African fabric from Ghana

$10 for lining

$1 for the pattern

$.25 for leather from repurposed jacket

An estimated cost of $56.25

Amount saved $1133.75 saving 95.27%

Conclusion: I am so in love with Stella Jean Designs. Her use of large scale vibrant African fabrics is drool worthy and completely out of my budget. I am happy to find a use for my gifted fabric. This pattern was a pain, but all in all, I am pleased with my result. I have a large collar, large scale African print coat that does not break the bank. The leather sleeves are interesting and a departure from the inspiration, but I am glad I went that way.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca