Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Cirque Dress Disaster! When Bad things Happen to Good Clothing

My super wonderful hubby tossed a few items into the washer. It was not enough to run a load so he didn't start it. I saw the items in there and tossed my laundry on top including my yellow Vogue 9112 Cirque Dress. Little did I know, he forgot to check his pockets and there was a pen in the pocket of his shirt!


When the washing was done, I discovered several garments including my dress spotted with ink. I loaded the unsoiled items into the dryer repeating the reminder, "I love my husband, I love my husband, I love my husband."

Ink Stained Cirque Dress
I looked at the stain and was sick to my stomach! I loved my dress and hated the thought of it being ruined.



Luckily, I had recently tie-dyed some t-shirts for my kiddos and still had the leftover dye bath. The dye was Rit Brand Turquoise color prepared per the stovetop package instructions. Thinking quickly, I reheated the dye and submerged the damp dress in the pot hoping to camouflage the stain. The resultant color was a unappetizing pea green with the ink still somewhat visible. The dyeing was not ideal, but it gave me hope that it was redeemable.

  
I ran to the store and bought another bottle of dye, this time in Denim. I added it to the lighter color dye bath, agitated it for 30 minutes and left it to sit in the pot completely submerged for an hour or so. I ran some errands and took it out when I returned home. 

When all was said and done, I was saying, I love my husband! I love my husband! I love my husband! The result of this pen oversight was a happy accident! Here is my new "denim" Cirque dress with no visible signs of the ink stains!

Worn here blueberry picking 4th of July Weekend!
I love the color accuracy of this dye! It looks like denim fabric without the weight of denim. 





The linen is airy and cool and best of all, I saved a dress I love!


The weight of my new Havana Twist braids forces the collar down, but I don't mind :).  I can pop it up again for more drama! I am so happy I was able salvage this dress! Have you had a sewing accident that you thought ended your project? Were you able to breathe new life into it? Please share!

I will be taking a sewing break for a bit. I hope to return soon with some hand-sewing projects and stencil designs. Until then,   

Happy Sewing,
Bianca


Friday, July 3, 2015

I Won an Arrow Sewing Chair!

The Arrow Sewing Cabinet company was having contest this month to introduce a new chair style. For a chance to win, you had to strike a chair pose and send them a photo.
               


When they introduced the contest, I felt a little silly about participating, so I didn't. Then, the day before the contest was to close, the reminder to enter was posted. They had few entrants and I saw the odds are in my favor. Here is my entry.



I am glad I suspended my silliness! I was randomly selected! My new chair is on its way! I'll let you know how awesome it is when I get it!

(this post was written entirely on my phone please forgive any formatting errors. I'm on the road and I will correct them when I'm back at my computer)

Happy sewing,

Bianca

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Haute Shorts and Bias Trim Babydoll Top in Ankara!

It is Summer and that means the need for cool, comfortable and easy clothes. I love cute shorts and fun tops. I have been dying to use some of the Ankara fabric I purchased earlier this year.  Lisa at Pattern and Branch made a pair of Ankara shorts that I thought were so adorable. Following her inspiration, I used the same pattern she did, but mine were not as flattering on me as hers. I searched my stash to find an alternative pattern for my shorts.


I found my Simplicity 1373 pattern that I used to make this tie back top here and liked the look of the shorts. They are simple shorts close fitting shorts with a side zipper.

                                   

I made the shorts in the size 12 with no fit adjustments. I made them as instructed except, I omitted the side slit at the hem and installed an invisible zipper. These shorts were easy to make and the instructions ere easy to follow. I like that these shorts are streamlined and no fuss. I like the length/ ease ratio on these. They are just short enough, while remaining decent and just loose enough, to not be bulky.

  
                   

The babydoll top is made using Simplicity 1693 and trimmed in bias tape made in the Ankara fabric. I cut a size 12 and I found it is too big. It is meant to be loose, but the fit reminds me a maternity top. I think the weight of the cotton may account for the drape. I made one in a rayon and it falls well. I will post a photo wearing it on laundry day. 



                                 



                

I have tried to make continuous bias tape from a fat quarter and never had any luck. I get lost with the lines and cutting direction. I find I have much better luck using a quilt binder ruler. You lay the angle of the ruler on your straight edge of the fabric to get bias. My ruler makes 2.5 inch strips.       




I then passed the through my tape maker and pressed them.

I encased the neckline and armscyes in the trim and sewed. I should have accounted for the hems in those areas and trimmed them down; next time.                     
   
(Carrying my Coffee Bean Bag)

All in all, I love the shorts! The fit works for me and it has a simple silhouette. I will be making these again. I like the top okay, but will not make it in a cotton again. I may try it again in a very drapey fabric.

     
  
Happy Sewing,
Bianca
                                 


  



Friday, June 19, 2015

The Definition of Easy McCalls 7120

So, you know I teach sewing to support my fabric habit. I am currently in a round of sewing lessons where my students have made a pair of pants and a top. Next, we will make a zipper project and a dress. Before, asking my students to make something, I figured I should try the pattern first. McCalls has a line of "Learn to Sew for Fun" patterns and I chose 7120. 



This pattern is for  semi-fitted, pullover dresses which have neckline and pocket variations, and stitched hems. B: Below elbow sleeves with button and tab. D: Shaped hemline, wrong side shows. C and D: Self-belt. Sleeves Bhemline Dside slits C and F: Narrow hem.



This pattern has an "easy" classification and I chose it because I wanted my students to have a few choices. I chose to test the pattern in the most difficult of the easy styles. I made this dress in Amy Butler Lotus Tree, Peony Pink. This fabric has been in my stash for a while and I have been waiting to find the correct project to use it. 

Pro: Many elements for new sewers to build skills: Sleeves, darts, exterior pockets, facings, buttons, buttonholes, and sleeve tabs.


Pro: Cute dress without closures for the newbie.


Con: The details may be time-consuming for the newbie. They may need to take breaks when they begin to feel overwhelmed.  


Con: Runs big, go down size. My pattern is XS-XXL range and  I cut the size medium, but graded it down to a small when sewing it, it is bigger than expected.



Con: Too long in the suggested length. I made hemmed mine in a wide 3.5 inch hem.

Maybe con: I am not sure about the depth of the neckline. I did not expect it to be this low. In this cotton, it stays in place. If using a rayon that drapes more, it will show too much for my taste.


Deep V-neckline

The print is large and I felt the pockets were camouflaged, so I added buttons to the pockets to mimic the buttons on the sleeves. 


Pocket with button detail
Sleeve tab

For the hem, I kept the length and sewed it 3.5 inches deep. I love a wide hem in a mini dress, so I didn't cut it down. 


Wide Hem



I like this one, I may sew this one again in the size small and I may add back

darts. I need easy summer dresses that have style, but are not fussy with 2 

young kids. I like this for the skills it teaches the newbie. My students will make 

it in the coming weeks, so I am anxious to get their take on it. For veteran 

sewists, this one is easy. I am curious to know if my students would define it as 

such.



Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Saturday, June 13, 2015

The Lady in Red With Mccalls 7047

Hey, do you remember that I posted plans to make this dress? Well, I have done it!

                       M7047, Misses' Dresses

It made with McCall's 7047 a "Create It" patten with mix and match options. It allows you to create lined, pullover dresses with or without peplum have close-fitting bodice, back neckline, skirt and sleeve variations, and elasticized waist. Peplum and long skirts: narrow hem. Long skirt with train, wrong side shows on hemline.    
                    Line Art
I was asked to make this dress for a friend who will be celebrating her 60th birthday this month. She wants to enter the next decade with pizazz  and va-va-voom! I was so excited to work with her. She knew what she wanted! She chose, bodice 3, with no sleeves, and skirt 9 made in sparkly "Ga-Ga Red Sequin". This Poly/Spandex blend has a 2-way stretch and a whole lot of shine.

Ga-Ga Red/Red | Solid Stone Fabrics

In a rare moment of rule following, I made a muslin shortly after she commissioned the dress. I tested the fit and tweaked it as needed and waited until now to make the real one. She wanted to tighten up her already fab bod and successfully dropped a dress size. I began working on it and it can together relatively fast. Well, let me restate that. I had uninterrupted time to work on it while the darlings are in summer camp.  

Have you worked with speciality fabrics like all over sequin? There are a few tricks to make things go smoothly.

  • Use a new rotary blade at the start of the project for clean cuts.
  • Use a new ball point needle for sewing knits. 
  • Use pattern weights not pins where possible.



  • Tailors chalk, not disappearing markers show up well and dissolve easily with a touch of heat.


  • Always press with a press cloth on the lowest setting.   
  • When sewing, keep the sequins side facing up with the smooth side, or lining fabric on the feed dogs.
  • Stitch/edge finished the seams using a seger and use a 3.5mm stitch length when sewing on the machine.
  • Expect a lot of sparkly debris in your work area.



Here is the finished dress on my custom dress form. I have pinned the dress to it so you can have an idea of the drape. I cannot wait to see my friend in it as she sizzles and pops in all the right places to make this dress sing. 


Back of the dress with wide draped cowl. 

Cowl front

Full Front

Drama in that drape!

I love the puddle train (still to be hemmed).

One shoulder drape variation


I have written a pattern review that you can read here.

I am anxious to see her in this dress! I will post pictures of her in it at the party. The dress code for the party is white attire for the guests. I am still deciding on the outfits for myself, my daughter, son and hubby. The party is in two weeks, so I need to get on it.  I am happily taking suggestions on a dress for me. If you have good ideas, please share!

Update! Here is the lovely birthday girl in her show stopper! She wore white for the first half of the night. When she stepped back into the room there was an audible gasp! She was stunning! My camera did not do it justice, but she glowed! I had goose bumps and teary eyes most of the night! I am so glad to have had the privilege to make this for her.



Happy Sewing,
Bianca