Tuesday, September 20, 2016

If I Sew for Fall Will That Usher It In?

It is so hot it feels like the height of Summer. The official start of Fall is in a few days and I am hoping  the climate gets the news! Fall is my favorite season to enjoy and for sewing projects. I love the cozy pieces, fun fabrics and layers.  


At a recent pattern sale, I picked up Butterick 6388 and was waiting for a change in the weather to get sewing. The change has not come, but I could wait no longer.
                 Image result for butterick 6388
After much deliberation, I decided to use retro double knits from my stash. I made a black/brow version first. After getting rave reviews from my family, I made another in a cream knit of a slightly lighter weight. 

The seam lines, multiple pattern pieces, and many marks to transfer imply a level of difficulty that may be off putting, but need not be. This pattern came together very fast and with great ease. If you make it, be sure to do your stay stitching and carefully clip your curves. This will make the tricky parts go smoothly.

I  made the size Medium based on my measurements.  When I pinned it to my dress form, I found the bodice a bit loose. I stitched the arm seams at 1 inch and graded back to 5/8 at the hips. I am on the fence about the fit now that I have seen the photos. It feels good, but is that too much ease?

If you have been here before, you know I have a thing for a good collar! I love the lapped collar here; it is what drew me to this pattern. The print fabric was firm enough to hold it up with no problem. I should have probably used a lightweight knit interfacing on the cream one as it falls a bit in back.

I knew going in, that the seam details of this dress would probably be lost in this print fabric choice. Luck thing I like the print, so I don't mind.

They are clearly more visible on the plain canvas of the cream knit fabric.

I usually prefer side seam pockets as a rule. I find I can put more in them without the changing the look and flow of the item. These will keep my hands warm, but they will not hold much. Additionally, a pet peeve of mine is seeing the outline of pockets against my skin in light colored garments. To avoid this problem, I used fabric in a brown that matches my skin tone.This color choice camouflages the pockets without distracting from the look of the dress front.

This is the pocket outline if I used white. Above it, is the indistinguishable outline of the brown pocket.

 In addition to this change, I also added more top stitching than the pattern suggested. I carried it down the angled seam

I am 5’8” and like my legs, (it only took a few decades). This is “just” the right length for me. It is borderline too short. If you are uncertain of the length, cut it longer and make a deeper hem. 

I am pleased with these dresses. I think they will transition well into Fall and Winter with some added tights and a coat. The vest and the shirt patterns will be good options as well. If this is on your list, I say grab it and make it.

Happy Sewing,