Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Sunshine, Lollipops, Rainbows and Vogue 9112

Some clothes are fun and just make me happy. This week, for me it is Vogue 9112. This dress is a whole heap of interesting. It is strange and easy going while looking complicated.

V9112, Misses' Dress
Vogue 9112
This was so fun to make. I didn't know how this would turn out or how it would look on me. I was delightfully anxious as I was putting it together. 

Vogue 9112
I love the interesting seam lines, the asymmetrical cuts and the curve of the hem.
Detail of the seams

Based on the bust measurement, I made the size small using a bright yellow linen from my stash. I made a mistake (I was distracted while watching Nurse Jackie) and cut the top of the shoulder seam to the XS. It however, made a marginal difference to the end result. The instructions are great on this simple dress. It is super important to transfer all of your markings carefully to be certain all the seams match up.  Because of my choice of fabric, I had to take care in making sure I maintained the right and wrong side of the fabric. The difference is subtle, but I didn't want any of the many segments off.


I altered the collar slightly because of the cutting error I mentioned. The pattern suggests basting the center front together and sewing the circle of fabric to the neckline.  I instead, pinned it to the neckline in a straight line letting it overlap where it would naturally. After sewing, I hand tacked the point of the collar in place rather than letting it fall. I also chose to omit the neckline facing. All of the interior seams are edge finished on the serger and I didn't think I needed the facing.
Love this collar!

Yes, yellow works. 
I really like this dress. It is fast to sew, has tons of character and is interesting. I will be making more.  I went shoe shopping and was stopped by a sales clerk. When I told her I made it, she instructed me to go home immediately and make a rainbow wardrobe of these for myself and one more for her!

Happy Sewing,

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Hand Sewn Details on DVF Vogue 1663.

I like an underdog. I like to root for the long shot, the geek, the less than popular one. We all know the quintessential DVF wrap dress and are familiar with the popular Vogue 1549 pattern. I made the dress for myself last year. This time around, I have sewn up an underdog DVF dress pattern from my stash. 

Vogue 1663
I love a good maxi dress and even better if it has pockets. This dress is a semi-fitted and slightly flared, pullover dress. It can be worn three inches below mid-knee or evening/maxi length.  It has a pointed collar, cutaway armholes, front button and self-loop closing and pockets in side seams. It has a self-tie belt holding in fullness at waistline. The pattern calls for topstitching, but I chose to extend it with all over hand sewing. 
This is not a multi-sized pattern but lucky for me, my copy is a size 10 requiring no modifications. For fabric, I  used an interlock knit that is buttery soft. I found it at a Value Village resale store. It had been hacked up by the previous owner, but I saw the potential in what was left. 

The instructions are great on this simple dress and it came together very fast.

I love a flowy maxi dress. This dress is shapeless and drapey without the belt and fun in that "Mrs. Roper's" from "Three's Company" way. 

With the belt synched, it has less of a boho feel. 

Pockets in a knit can be tricky considering the weight of the contents. These pockets are great. The pocket extension on the pattern factors that in well. I can put my cell phone and keys in them without bulk or distortion. 

My favorite thing about the pattern are the seam lines, the collar, and front opening. They were a perfect canvas for hand-sewn topstitching. I had not done hand-sewing in a long time and I missed it (thanks Helen for reminding me)

Hand- sewn top-stitching details on dress worn by  My Custom Dress form.

Front details

Hand-sewing along side seams. 
I machine sewed the majority of the internal seams and used button and craft thread to add hand-sewn details to the seams. I stitched the approximately 20 feet of seams all down by hand. It was not as bad as it sounds and worth it. I cut the skirt at the hemline and left it with a raw edge. 

If you get your hand on this out of print pattern, I say grab it and give this unsung pattern a go. 

Happy Sewing,

Saturday, April 4, 2015

It's Spring and Time for a Tie Back Top Using Simplicity 1373

It's Spring! Yay! Here in Texas, these are our beautiful weather days. We have temps in the '70's and '80's with cool breezes and low humidity. It is the weather we wish for in July when all of that changes. I enjoyed the look of my Dutch Wax peplum top and decided to make a casual take on the style. 


For this top, I chose to sew Simplicity 1373

This misses' sportswear pattern includes slim pants and shorts plus tops with 2 different back interest styles & subtle peplum. For a great fit the top either buttons or ties at back, has front and back darts & a side zipper. I made the tie back top with subtle peplum as seen in view B. I have nothing like this in my wardrobe. I sewed it up in a cotton fabric from my stash. I bought it almost 5 (eek!) years ago.

My pattern sizing ranges from 6-12. I made the 12 as is standard for this brand. Now that is is made, I feel like I could have made a 10 for the top portion and a 12 for the peplum. I very rarely have to make pattern adjustments. This pattern had me thinking that I may need to consider a SBA. I am tumbling toward 40 and had 2 kids so the "girls" aren't what they were.
 The bust/shoulder area is too loose for me. Rather than question my body, I will chuck this sizing issue up to the pattern for now.

 I like that the sweetheart neckline is not too low. The fit of the peplum is pretty good. 
The tie back is almost wide enough to cover the width of my bra.
Tie Back
The instructions were easy to follow, but very time-consuming. The straps and upper peplum are all trimmed in bias tape before being put together. As I was working on the pieces, I had the thought “I could have made a dress by now.” It was a bit fiddly with the stitching and stitching again.

Bias Tape Finishing on inside.
Invisible Zipper
It was impossible for me to achieve the correct fit by tying it myself. I got dressed after my hubby left for work and had to ask my 6-year old to give me a hand. Her tying it was enough to get me dressed, but I felt the shoulders did not fit. I finally asked a friend at my son’s school to tie me up. When tied, I feel it is still too loose at my shoulders. It looks fine, but I feel they will fall down at any time. They are too wide and long.

I will not sew this one again. It is cute and I like this one, but given the time, I will not. I would have to spend more time shortening and narrowing the straps to get the right fit. If you like it and would not need to make these changes, I say go for it. I like the look of the pants and shorts in the pattern. I will give them a try, so stayed tuned.

Happy Sewing and Happy Easter,