Wednesday, March 14, 2018

Hand-Dyed Shibori Spring Jacket Using Vogue 1493


Spring is upon us. In Texas, it is that temperamental place where layering is necessary because the day may begin in the 40's and end in the 80's. I have gotten used to wearing jeans and a t-shirt with a lightweight topper to add style and pop to such an uninspired base layer.  


I won several patterns during the Fabric Mart Challenge last year. It was about the same time I saw Meg at Mccalls make up Vogue 1493. I loved her grey version so much I added this to my list. 

Funny thing, by the time the pattern arrived, I had forgotten the inspiration and was certain I had made a typo when sending the pattern numbers on! Did I really want to make this? 
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Image result for vogue 1493
The pattern cover, as made, is not my style. When I checked the line drawings, I as was reminded of what I liked about it. 

                 Image result for vogue 1493
My knee surgery has limited my sewing output, but not my creative energy. The recuperation period gave me some time to dedicate to Itajime Shibori. I took an Indigo hand-dyeing class last summer and learned the basics on small cuts of fabrics. I had a blast and I really wanted to try it on a large scale for garments.

I bought an all-inclusive kit, prepared the dye bath and got to work. For fabric, I used a 10oz. canvas drop cloth from Amazon. Yes, a drop cloth! Being home bound, I was shopping my stash and this was what was available. I pre-washed it with soda ash to prepare it for receiving the dye. While damp, I folded and clamped the fabric with resist boards to prevent the dye from penetrating unwanted areas. 

I dipped and exposed the fabric in the dye bath to get the desired color. It took several hours of dipping, manipulation, air exposure and re-dipping, but I am happy with the result.

I deliberated between dyeing the fabric versus the finished garment. I am glad I went this way. It allowed the pigments to be evenly disbursed throughout the fabric and allowed me to play with print placement of the yardage. 


I really love the overlapping sleeve details on this number!


The weight and texture of the canvas holds the shape really well.


The pattern as made per instructions, is categorized as advanced. Without the bias and flower appliques, I would lower the skill level to intermediate. The only tricky part is the sleeve construction. It is different, but not difficult and worth it.

I also love that this jacket has side seam pockets. That makes this one a real winner for me.

The seams of this unlined jacket are finished with bias tape. It is the perfect treatment for the canvas fabric which has a tendency to fray. 

I have reached for this everyday since making it. It is comfy, artsy and just what I hoped when I started planning. 

I dyed a lot of fabric with my kit. I am still planning what to make with them. I hope the other projects I make will be this awesome.

Happy Sewing,