The Good Night's Sleep Dress Vogue 1234

Oh, don't you just love an interesting pattern? I have had Vogue 1234 in my pattern stash for quite a while. 

The global pandemic and the struggle to make useful, wearable pieces with limited places to wear them are in constant conflict for me. When I think about what to make lately, I am getting bored with the idea of making basics. I was looking for a challenge and this pattern is a good palate cleanser and a return to weird and wonderful making. How can you not love the angles and all the funky seamlines of this dress. 

Once the decision was made, I spent a lot of time contemplating fabric choices and placement options. I have seen this dress made up on pattern review in solids, prints, and inspiring color-blocked options. For my first foray into this pattern, I chose to do a print and solid mix. I shopped Nature's Fabrics for two coordinating fabrics. I went with tan distressed dots for the print and black bamboo spandex jersey for the solid. I chose to highlight the print on the center front and back, the sleeves and the neckline.

I made size C based on my bust measurement. This pattern makes no accommodation for lengthening or shortening so I cut it as is. After cutting the pattern and the fabric out, I had planned to begin construction immediately. 

Mid-Century Pattern Weights

The pattern instructions are different from those of typical patterns. Due to the fabric shapes and construction details additional work is needed to mark the pattern so the pieces fit together correctly. It was a little frustrating for me to take the extra step of numbering the pieces as the designer wanted. Why didn't the pattern company preprint the numbers in advance? After adding the markings and reading the instructions, I knew I could not undertake making this late in the day as I had planned. With illustrations like this, I knew it needed a good night's sleep, a clear head and a full cup of coffee.

With a clear head and determined focus, I dove in. In the end, it was not as difficult as it initially appeared. It came together in an afternoon. The additional markings made all the difference, don't skip this step. 

The only thing that was a bit time consuming was the recommendation to wait until the garment was significantly constructed before using your serger to edge finish the seams. With typical knit garments, I usually do those steps simultaneously. This was a wise recommendation so you have fewer threads to unpick if you mismatch the placement. I made this mistake and unpicking a zigzag stretch stitch is no joke! I could not imagine having to unpick a serger seam.

I made no modifications to the pattern. The only change  was I used my cover-stitch machine to finish the hem and neckline.

I love the drapey goodness of this dress! It is so comfy and came out exactly as I hoped. 

The fun continues on the back.

I like this version and hope to make another this summer with color-blocking and decorative hand-stitching.

Many people commented about this pattern on my Instagram post. Many have it, but have hesitated to make it because of the intimidating looking instructions. I am here to say, it's different, not difficult; do it!

Happy sewing,

Bianca

Pandemic Sewing Gets Twisted!

For as long as I have been sewing, I thought I had sewn with just about every type of fabric. I'm so grateful that my collaborations with Nature's Fabrics that introduces me to fabrics I had not considered before. Recently, they have released some beautiful printed bullet knit fabrics that caught my eye. Bullet knit is lightweight knit fabric with a small pique texture. It is denser than ITY, but not as thick as a scuba knit. This knit is 95% Polyester and 5% Spandex.  It is 62” wide and weighs 260 GSM.  It stretches 50% in the width and 50% in the length.  It is a soft flowing, does not fray or ravel. The print is only on the top   

I was drawn to Artist Palette

        

and Glitter Stripe

If you follow me on Instagram, you know I love my Willow Overalls by Pipe Dream Patterns. I have made several pairs and they are heavy in my rotation! When the Eilidh Twist Dress was released, I added it to my must make list. I love both versions of this dress, but decided version 1 would get more wear than the more provocative back twist version. 

When I ordered the two colorways of this bullet knit fabric, the plan was to use the Artist Palette for Little Miss, and Glitter Stripe for myself. When the fabrics arrived however, I fell in love with the colorful one and claimed it for myself. I promise I made it up to her and she loves what I made.

I guess I had this fabric in mind when I came up with these pattern weights.

The one and a half yards of this was enough for the body of the dress but was slightly short for the longer of the sleeve options. I did not want a cap sleeve, so I made made do with what I had.

The dress came together very quickly with no complications. The only change I made was to stabilize the back scoop with basted clear elastic. 

I finished it on my coverstitch with variegated rainbow threads.

I think this fabric, with this front twist, makes quite the statement.

        

         

The back scoop falls right above my bra line so no special underwear is required to wear it.

            

I made the size medium (after trying the large), omitted the side slit and made no other alterations.

I would not have shortened the sleeves if my fabric was long enough. Now that I've done it, I think the scale of the sleeves with the length, balances very well.

                         

Like with the Willow Overalls, I'm sure I will be adding more makes of this pattern to my wardrobe. I think this would look great in mixed prints or color-blocking. 

ICYMI:
1. I joined the Sew and Tell Podcast to talk about fabric dyeing, painting and manipulation.  We discussed inspiration, failure and played what would you make. I hope you will tune in.

2. I have new pattern weight designs listed in my Etsy store.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Looking For a Bit of Date Night Romance

February is the month for celebrating those we love. 

As busy parents, my husband and I take any opportunity we can to have some quality alone time. I found this wonderfully romantic Pink Roses on Grey Bamboo/Spandex Jersey at Nature's Fabrics.

It evoked images of quiet music playing, candlelit Chianti bottles, and the aromas of a meal not prepared by me. I knew it would be perfect for a Valentine's Day date night dress. I have previously used Butterick 6678 to make a dress with the pattern recommended woven fabric. I liked that dress and wanted to recreate it with in a knit fabric with slight variations from my first.

For this version, I chose to make view B with the sleeves of view A.

To modify this for a knit, I went down two sizes from that needed for a knit. This allowed me to reduce the ease for a figure-hugging fit.

I omitted the center back zipper as the dress can be pulled over the head though the deep neckline. I added clear elastic to the neckline facing before sewing it to the bodice. This provides stability and prevents warping with time and wear.

I really love the look and feel of the delicate gathers at the sleeve 

and the lower-tier.

I don't think I need to say it, but this dress was a big hit with the hubs. We had a great time and this dress will be featured heavily in the date wardrobe rotation.

The Black History Month sale in my Etsy store is still going on. It will end on February 29. Now is a great time to order your pattern weights, vintage patterns and anything else that tickles your fancy. 

 

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Holiday Sparkle with a Fast and Easy Dress

The holiday season is upon us and it has brought cooler temperatures here in Texas! I am so excited to finally be consistently dressing in Fall/Winter wear. 

Holiday dressing is a great opportunity for me to add some sparkle to my wardrobe. I found this fabulous black, gold, and tan, cotton spandex jersey at Nature's Fabric. It has just enough sparkle to not be over the top.

I rarely take direct inspiration from pattern envelopes, preferring to put my own spin on my garments. With this dress though, I pretty much used the fabric to make the dress straight from Mccalls 7993. I added black cotton spandex jersey, also from Nature's Fabric, for the contrast.

This is a simple dress where the pleated and cuffed sleeves are a focal point.

 The cuff can be worn fully extended

 Or rolled back for a shorter look.

The stand collar can also be fully extended

Or folded down

This is a fast and easy dress to make. It is described as a "fitted" dress, so I was surprised by the generous ease in this size medium. I am happy for the looser fit, but if I were hoping on bodycon style, I would have been disappointed. 

I am very happy with this dress. The fabric is comfortable and easy to wear. I expect this will be in heavy rotation this season when the occasion  calls for a bit of easy elegance.

Happy Holidays and Happy Sewing,

Bianca

If I Sew For Fall, Will That Speed Up It's Arrival?

School is back in session so, for all intents and purposes, Summer is over and I have Fall on my mind. The temperatures are in the 90's and it feels like 100's. I am retouching blog photos to remove sweat drops and shine from my skin. When that fails, I am doing double shoots at different times of day for usable photos. I am so over this season and I am ignoring all of the environmental evidence and shifting my sewing gears.

Seasonal projects that I worked on many months ago with Autumn debuts, are now being released. My Emerson Tote Bag which is a part of the Sew News Capsule Studio: Well Traveled Pattern Collection is live and available for download. The fabric choices, the layers and the transitional pieces of all of the items in the collection hint of cozy, relaxing and comfy times.

In addition to the capsule wardrobe pattern release, I have a cutwork embroidery project in the Fall 2019 edition of Creative Machine Embroidery. Everything about this issue is a far stretch from Summer creating it is a clear shift toward Halloween decorations and preparations. 

 

Looking at the forecast, I have no confidence that the weather will cool down significantly anytime soon. Despite that, my mind has made the shift Fall making. The new arrivals of fabrics at Nature's Fabric has me really excited and I chose a couple of the new prints to add to my stash. The first one I want to share with you is Fall Red Berries. It is a lusciously soft and cozy bamboo/spandex jersey with soft peach, cream and red tones. This is the first time I have sewn with this type of fabric and I love the way it feels. 

I had many pattern choices to consider. Some were exactly my style and others were a slight departure from my go-to. In the end, I decided to go with Mccalls 7973 in view B.

This dress is a bit different from my usual style, but I find the ruffle neckline and gathered sleeves so charming.

I considered making this dress in my favorite maxi length. In the end however, I decided against it thinking it may make me look too matronly. I used my sashiko inspired pattern weights and rotary cutter for fast cutting of the pattern and fabric. The construction was done on my sewing machine and serger.

It came together with ease with the exception  of the sleeve instructions. I initially had trouble understanding, seeing and differentiating the stitching and gathering lines of the illustration. These eyes aren't what they used to be! Eventually, I took a photo and zoomed in to see what I needed to do. Anyone else need to do this?

 

After completing the sleeves, I wasn't pleased with the light density of the gathers I got by following the pattern. I decided to make them more prominent with narrow elastic. After sewing the elastic in place at the top of the seam, I pulled it taut while sewing it down with a zig-zag stitch along the seam.

At the end of the seam, when the elastic is released, the fabric gathers perfectly. 

I love the sweet details of this dress.

I like how the neckline ruffles with cord tie ends frame my face. 

I can't resist a dress that has side seam pockets and I was happy to not have to draft them for this. Now that it is made, I am pleased with decision to keep the length as is.  I am on the fence about how I feel about the width of the side ties. I generally like them wider to cinch in the volume of fabric at the waistline. Considering that this dress is meant to be loose fitting and not cinched, I think I am okay with them as is. 

I am loving this transitional dress! The color of the print, the feel of the fabric and overall style came together as I hoped. 

Stay cool friends and happy sewing,

Bianca