I have wanted to make a blazer in Alabama Chanin style for a while now. I have been waiting on the perfect pattern and hadn't found it until now. Vogue 8932 has some really fabulous seam lines and look at the curve of the neckline. I think I can work this one up in time for fall.
I also wanted the jacket to be fitted. That meant winging it and adjusting the size on my custom dress form as I went. My I cut the size 10 and stitched it up using a tip from the Craftsy class, Hand-Embellishing Knit Fabric. I marked my seam allowances before stitching. This really helped me keep the lines straight in this pattern where the lines are key.
I got to work on it and was making quick work of it.
|front only stitched|
|back stitched, but not attached|
|Front and back attached.|
|Love the details of the back|
After a short break I finally figured out the sleeve. I cannot say what the problem was for certain. I am sorry this may not be helpful to you if you make this one. I think my orientation of the pieces was thrown off because I positioned fabric wrong sides together (intentionally), and didn't mark them (unintentionally). I also think it makes a difference which side of the sleeve you stitch up first. I un-stitched the side I had stitched, flipped it and attached it to the opposite side. That worked! My suggestion to you is to simply mark the wrong and right sides of each sleeve piece before stitching.
Here are the photos of the completed jacket. I love the finished product!
|Neckline and binding with the herringbone stitch|
MISSES' JACKET AND VEST: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket or vest has raised neckline, seam detail and shaped hemline. A: front-button closing. A and B: two-piece sleeves. B and C: raw edge finish, seams stitched on right side of fabric, and front snap closing.
Pattern Sizing: (4-12)
I cut the 10 of view B I used larger seam allowances on the sides when I realized it would not be a fitted as I would have liked. Next time I would cut an 8. I wear a 6 in RTW.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes with the exception of my changes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were easy to follow. I believe the problem I had with the sleeves was due to operator error.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like: I love the seam lines in the back and the curved lines of the front. I also like that the back hem rises higher than the front.
Dislike: From the line drawings there does not appear to be gathers in the sleeves. There is gathering and they are bulky in front. Because they are two part sleeves I cannot space them out the way I like. After fixing my problem with the sleeve, I still do not like the gathers there; it is not a deal breaker though.
Fabric Used: Double Layer of Slate Grey Jersey Cotton. Slate Grey button and craft thread.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I made it to be fitted my body. I cut my size, to be safe, but ended up using an 1.5 seam allowance in the side seams (next time I will cut an 8).
- I used a double layer of fabric throughout. I hand-sewed the entire jacket in Alabama Chanin style.
- The seams are stitched once, then felled to the inside and top stitched.
- I omitted the facing pieces and instead bound the front and neckline with a strip of jersey secured with a herringbone stitch.
- I adjusted the snap positions to be sure the front lay the way I wanted.
Conclusion: I love the lines of this jacket. I am tremendously pleased with the way it turned out. I used my dress form continuously throughout the process of making of this jacket. The combination of making it fitted and in cotton jersey added a challenge I am not sure I would have overcome otherwise.