Beaded Neckline Maxi Dress in the Alabama Chanin Style

As I have said before, I love sewing retro patterns. I especially like imagining them in the Alabama Chanin style. I inherited my mother's pattern collection and she had many great patterns from the 1960's and 1970's. She made some of them and others she had not. I feel a responsibility create some of the garments she did not have an opportunity to create. 
There is a Vintage Contest over on Pattern Review that was a perfect chance to sew retro with an A.C. twist. I dove into my pattern cabinet and found this Vogue Americana/Carol Horn pattern. It is a high fitted and flared dress in mid-knee or evening length. It has a u-neckline, cut-away square armholes, pockets in side seams and princess seaming and top stitched details.

I love a good maxi dress and decided to make this one in  a double layer of blue cotton jersey. This meant I would not need the dress faced so I omitted those pieces. My pattern is a size 10. My size in this pattern and given that I am using jersey, should be a pattern size 8. I chose to omit the zipper and stitch the dress with a 1-inch seam allowance to account for the stretch in the cotton and adjust the size down.

I knew I would sew this in the A.C. style but given the extensive length of the seams I opted to machine sew the interior seams. I lengthened my stitch to the longest possible and used a knit needle. This adjustment solved any wavy fabric problems I might have encountered otherwise.  I felled the seams to the inside of the dress and I used white button and craft thread to hand-sew the top-stitching. I also used my leather thimble to help with getting through the layers of fabric in the top-stitching. I found it much easier to do the top-stitching on the seams when the dress was flat. I sewed all but one side seam together, did the top-stitching, then stitched the final seam to close the dress. 

Top-stitching seams while flat

In keeping with the A. C. style, I used bias strips of jersey to bind the neckline and armholes using a parallel stitch. I used seed and bugle beads to embellish the neckline in the parallel stitch as well.
My handy dandy beading glove was perfect for this. I alternated between a small seed bead, a bugle bead, then a seed bead.  I am struggling to find the correct needle size to fit the interior circumference of the bead and will accommodate the thickness of the button and craft thread. I found a needle thin enough to fit the beads, but I had to enlarge the eye of the needle. The needle was so thin it bent as it went through the four layers of fabric. This made the beading slow going.  If you have a combination that works, please share. 

The red thread seen in the photo above is my basting thread to secure my binding in place. I find it easier to remove the thread when it is different color

 I decided not to hem the dress as it is jersey and will curl over time. I am very happy with the end result. I am working on a shrug to wear over it as the weather changes. Here are photos of the finished dress.

Dress Front

Dress Back

Beaded Neckline

Bead details

Top-stitching Details

 I knew I needed a cover up as the Texas weather changes for our 90 seconds of Winter. I wanted  something with coverage on my back and arms, but would not distract from the front. 

I found Simplicity 3533 in my stash and thought view E was a suitable choice. It was super fast and easy to sew. I made it in a single layer and did not hem the opening.  Beyond that, I made it according to the instructions.
 

                 

Here is B.I.R.A wearing it. The good thing about having a body double, is that I can have a bad hair day and let her work for me.

Happy sewing!

Peplums Please!

Peplums have been trending this year and I have quite a few patterns in my stash. The Fall Collection of the McCalls Patten Company was recently released and they are showcasing them for fall. I was drawn to  Pattern 6844, a lightweight cardigan with hem variations.

McCalls 6844

As with most patterns I sew, I take a critical eye to it to see if I can make it in Alabama Chanin style. This cardigan was no exception. I decided to sew it in a double layer of hunter green jersey cotton from my stash. I used a double layer of fabric for all pieces with the exception of the facing and the peplum.  I have skinny arms and I wanted the sleeves to be fitted. I decided to sew the sleeves with a 1-inch seam allowance. I used my dress form to be certain to get the correct upper sleeve fit.

The Alabama Chanin company is moving to a machine sewn line called A. Chanin. Because are sewing some items on a machine, I could as well. I decided to sew the interior themes of this project on the sewing machine. I use a knit needle and a long stitch length and it came together pretty fast. I chose to sew all of the secondary stitches by hand using hunter green button and craft thread. I felled the seams to the interior of the coat and kept my knots hidden.

Tone on Tone stitches

The pattern instructions required interfacing on the facing pieces but I didn't think it was necessary. I used it here, but I think next time I will not. Also, the pattern claims that the front  does not meet but I did not find this to be the case. I made the size small and the found there was enough fabric to lap over itself. I think I need to think about way to keep it closed. I will wear it for a bit and see what needs to happen; maybe a belt, maybe hooks and eyes.

B.I.R.A Wearing the Cardigan

 I'm really excited with how they turned out it. I have gotten many complements and requests for custom orders. It is super comfy and great for twirling!

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!

Happy Sewing!

When life gives you lemons, cover them in beads.

Over a year and a half ago I made the caplet featured in the out of print Butterick  5843. 

Alabama Chanin had just launched its a line featuring polka dots and I thought I'd give it a try. I did not have an airbrush so I painted the fabric using my old timey spray bottle method. This method was hit or miss for me. Sometimes I got the paint to stay within the stencil shape, but other times it leaked out over the side. 

The spillage seamed minor and given that I was still new to AC hand-sewing, I decided to press on with this project. I used a double layer of jersey cotton; grey underneath and a denim blue on top.  I stenciled black paint to color the polka dots. To secure the layers, I used embroidery floss and a reverse back stitch. Some shapes had two layers of embroidery floss in grey and white. 

After some time I finished the cape. On one hand, I was happy that I finished a project, but on the other hand I was not happy with the paint. In those days, my sewing results were hit or miss and I was just happy to be advancing in my sewing and using pieces they didn't necessarily work as practice. So, I finished the cape and put it in my closet where it hung unused.

Fast forward to the present day and Natalie's Craftsy class. When she got to the topic of beading she mentioned using beading as a decorative element, but also as an aid to help hide mistakes! This gave me the brilliant idea to bring some new life into this forgotten project. I would use beads to cover the spillage of the paint and hopefully get a wearable garment. I used a mixture of bugle beads, chop beads, and sequins to create random half-beading along the outside of the stenciled shapes and embroidery stitches. This did wonders to hide the paint that bled through the stencil.

Beading on the outside of the polka dots.

 

Double reverse back-stitched shapes

Cape Front with a cross stitch binding along the neckline and front

Cape Back

The original cape was secured with jersey ties. I decided to swap that out for a jersey covered button and elastic loop. I am pleased with the result and will not allow this to hang out in the back of the closet anymore.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Contest Entry

I finished my entries for the Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Contest. I began the month hoping to rise to the challenge of hand-sewing four garments in as many weeks. I honestly did not think I would get it all done in the allotted time. I was however, blessed with napping kids and a hubby watching football some nights. 

I made  a Alabama Chanin Corset and Long Skirt, and a dress and a jacket all hand-stitched in Alabama Chanin Style.

The four items combine to create the following outfits:
*Corset, skirt
*Dress
*Dress and jacket
*Corset, skirt, jacket
*Jacket, skirt 

I am very pleased with my results, especially the jacket and dress.They all go so well together. Here are pics of me in my new wardrobe.

The voting begins on 10/04/2013 and ends 10/10/ 2013. Here is the link to the contest gallery. Be sure to see the other entries and cast you vote for me! 

Happy Sewing!

My Version of the Alabama Full Dress

Don't you just love this dress!

The multiple seam lines, the fitted bodice and flared skirt. I love the denim color of the jersey cotton. What I do not love is the price. It is a whooping $955! Well worth the time and effort I am sure, but as a friend said,  "Where are you going to wear a $1000 dress?" My answer was simple, "Kroger!" Who cares where I am going to wear it? It is gorgeous and I would rather have it and not need it, than not have it need it, right?

While I am not in a position to buy this dress, I have do have the tools to make it. I found McCalls 6504 which seems like a fair match. I am still working on entries for the Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Contest, so I thought this dress would work as my dress component. I want this to coordinate with my other pieces so I am making it using black cotton jersey.

I began stitching the front of the dress following the pattern instructions to match the correct pieces together. This part required some planning on felling the seams. The seams needed to be stitched wrong sides together, then top stitched with the seams felled to the sides of the body.  I did not want my knots exposed so I focused on beginning and ending my threads on the sides that would be felled.

Knot ends to be hidden by the felling of the seam.

 After stitching the front together I trimmed the seam allowance down to about 1/4 inch. I repeated this for the back and pinned it to my dress form.

Trimming seams

After pinning, I see it is too big in the sides so I increased the seam allowance in the sides.

Increasing the seam allowance.

Still too big

Not fitted enough

Even after increasing the seam allowance if felt so frumpy. It was not giving me the look I wanted. I decided to cut the middle front piece in half to add a seam and pull it in even more. That turned into a disaster! When I felled the seam, the symmetry was uneven and it looked awful! What to do, what to do....? I decided to remove the middle front seam all together and it proved to be a great solution.

Once I was comfortable with the fit, it was time for the finishing touches. I added bias binding to the neck and armholes and bound it with a herringbone stitch. I also added a border of grey jersey to the bottom of the dress. I am 5'8 and felt the length was too short for my liking. 

I am glad I did not use my denim jersey to figure this one out. With all of the adjustments I had to make on this dress I would have stressed to much. That said, I am very pleased with this end result.

Front

Back

Bindings

Contrast border

I am excited to make my replica of the Alabama Chanin Full dress in denim when I get some time. In the meantime, I would love to know what you think of this one.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Vogue Jacket made Alabama Chanin style

I have wanted to make a blazer in Alabama Chanin style for a while now. I have been waiting on the perfect pattern and hadn't found it until now. Vogue 8932 has some really fabulous seam lines and look at the curve of the neckline. I think I can work this one up in time for fall.

The details of the back are impressive and I couldn't wait to begin. I purchased some slate grey cotton jersey fabric and used some of it in my beaded sampler. I decided to use the remainder fabric in creating this jacket. My plan was to stitch it up with the seams exposed and adding top stitching. I like the idea of exposed seams felled to the outside. That said, I  haven't made one like this and wanted to have a fall back plan if it didn't work out like I hoped. I decide to stitch it with wrong sides together. That way I have the choice to wear it with the seams felled to the inside if I choose.

I also wanted the jacket to be fitted. That meant winging it and adjusting the size on my custom dress form as I went. My I cut the size 10 and stitched it up using a tip from the Craftsy class, Hand-Embellishing Knit Fabric. I marked my seam allowances before stitching. This really helped me keep the lines straight in this pattern where the lines are key.

  I got to work on it and was making quick work of it.

front only stitched

back stitched, but not attached

Front and back attached.

Love the details of the back

I was having trouble attaching the sleeves. I could not figure out why one sleeve would go in with no problem, but the other was a mess. It would gather and bunch at the middle of the bicep. It is a two part sleeve, so just adjusting the gathers would not solve the problem. 

After a short break I finally figured out the sleeve. I cannot say what the problem was for certain. I am sorry this may not be helpful to you if you make this one. I think my orientation of the pieces was thrown off because I positioned  fabric wrong sides together (intentionally), and didn't mark them (unintentionally). I also think it makes a difference which side of the sleeve you stitch up first. I un-stitched the side I had stitched, flipped it and attached it to the opposite side. That worked! My suggestion to you is to simply mark the wrong and right sides of each sleeve piece before stitching.

Here are the photos of the completed jacket. I love the finished product!

Jacket front

Jacket back

Neckline and binding with the herringbone stitch

Back Neckline

Front binding

Shoulder

 Here is a review of the pattern with the changes I made.

MISSES' JACKET AND VEST: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket or vest has raised neckline, seam detail and shaped hemline. A: front-button closing. A and B: two-piece sleeves. B and C: raw edge finish, seams stitched on right side of fabric, and front snap closing.

Pattern Sizing: (4-12)
I cut the 10 of view B I used larger seam allowances on the sides when I realized it would not be a fitted as I would have liked. Next time I would cut an 8. I wear a 6 in RTW.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes with the exception of my changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were easy to follow. I believe the problem I had with the sleeves was due to operator error.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like: I love the seam lines in the back and the curved lines of the front. I also like that the back hem rises higher than the front.

Dislike: From the line drawings there does not appear to be gathers in the sleeves. There is gathering and they are bulky in front. Because they are two part sleeves I cannot space them out the way I like. After fixing my problem with the sleeve, I still do not like the gathers there; it is not a deal breaker though.

Fabric Used: Double Layer of Slate Grey Jersey Cotton. Slate Grey button and craft thread.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

• I made it to be fitted my body. I cut my size, to be safe, but ended up using an 1.5 seam allowance in the side  seams (next time I will cut an 8).
•  I used a double layer of fabric throughout. I hand-sewed the entire jacket in Alabama Chanin style. 
• The seams are stitched once, then felled to the inside and top stitched.
•  I omitted the facing pieces and instead bound the front and neckline with a strip of jersey secured with a herringbone stitch.
• I adjusted the snap positions to be sure the front lay the way I wanted.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I like this pattern. I may make it in wool in my regular size and on a machine. I would recommend it for those interested in sewing it in Alabama Chanin style.

Conclusion: I love the lines of this jacket. I am tremendously pleased with the way it turned out. I used my dress form continuously throughout the process of making of this jacket.  The combination of making it fitted and in cotton jersey added a challenge I am not sure I would have overcome otherwise.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca