Leather Contrast Jacket Using Simplicity 1070 PR Sewing Bee Round 3

So here we are at Round 3 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee, the lined jacket challenge. Grrrrr! When I think of jackets, I recall my days of meeting with lawyers, VP's, and members of law enforcement in my job as a University Dean of Discipline. I have hung up my Kasper suits and not looked back. This challenge unfortunately,  immediately got me thinking of clothes I rarely wear.

Given the time crunch, I hit the ground running and got off to a rough start. I made the beginnings of two jackets, one I will complete. I decided to switch my plan up in favor of Simplicity 1070.

The body of the jacket is made with a brown double knit. The contrast is leather repurposed from a skit in my stash. I bought it for $.25 at a resale store. The lining is a leopard print polyester knit, also from my stash.
I cut the body of the jacket out and began construction.

I thought I had two D-rings in my stash, so I did not buy them when I bought the pattern. On step 2, I could not find them and had to improvise. I found a leather tab and buckle closure that I removed from a damaged purse in my leathercraft stash. I thought it would make a wonderful design element while maintaining functionality. I trimmed it to fit and was delighted to see it work. In addition to following the pattern instructions, I stabilized under the buckle on the knit side with heavyweight interfacing to support the weight of the closure.

The construction required the use of two sewing machines; one for leather and the other for the knit. I switched between the two as necessary to save the hassle of changing needles and adjusting the machine settings. Additionally, I like the look of the longer stitch length that is achieved on my leather machine. It mimics the stitches of the pieced leather from the skirt. 
   

For the lining, I found a leopard print knit tucked away on one of my sewing shelves. I did not buy this fabric on purpose. I likely, bought it in a bundle at an estate sale or resale store. I did not remember I had it and it was a happy surprise to find it. It is similar to that of the pattern envelope. I wanted a fun lining to add some pop to the inside and add contrast to the cuffs when rolled up. You can read about the lining process in the complete Pattern Review here.

I really like the versatility of looks that can be achieved with this one. My version is a subtle contrast, but imagine the drama of a stark contrast. I am not likely to do this, but  consider the possibility of wearing it lining side out.

So we are at the round I was eliminated in last year. I can really say I do not know what the judges want. There is no feedback on why someone is eliminated or advances. We are not privy to the judging rubric. If you make it to the next round you don't know it you were number 2 from winning the round or one shy of being cut. This round says "lined jacket" no closure needed. It is a strange balance between having creative freedom and uncertainty. Say a prayer for my nerves as I wait.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca  

Improve Boring Wovens with Reverse Applique

Waiting, waiting, waiting! So we are waiting to find out who advances and who

has won the first round of the PR Sewing Bee. While I have a few “must sew” 

commissions that I am working on, I needed a creative break and decided to 

try a reverse applique process on woven fabrics using an out of print Muu-Muu 

pattern. 

               

I “made” my fabric to transform my fabric. I used a boring grey (I am from the Bahamas and this is how we spell it) colored cotton for the exterior of the dress.  I stenciled a design on the top fabric using blue metallic fabric paint. 

Once dry, I basted the cut fabric pieces together, wrong side of solid to the

right side of the print. I machine stitched around the shapes using cobalt blue

topstitch thread and an open toe foot.

I toyed with adding accents of white embroidery floss around some shapes. Given the style of the pattern, I decided it did not improve the overall look I was going for.

I am very excited with this result.

                   

Such a pity to have to remove the middle painted areas. It is my fault for being lazy and not airbrushing, I used a pump spray with a less precise nozzle. 

Let it dry before removing the stencil.

                 

Once all stitched, I cut away the middles leaving a little of the painted fabric along the edge. This revealed the blue, white and green Lissette print fabric beneath.

Cutting with extreme caution.

Reverse Applique Dress in Woven Fabrics.

    

I really like the fun of this neckline.

I sort of stitched it up per the pattern instructions. It had a lot of ease and was a bit more paper baggy than I liked. I took an inch from the sides and added back darts to adjust the fit. I reversed the opening to the back so as to not interrupt the pattern on the front. I made a ridiculously long tie for the back. I sometimes get dressed alone find a long tie easier to work with.

                            

I left the back plain for contrast and speed.

                         

Did I add pop to the drab grey or what?

Close up of shapes.

I had such fun making this! I was not sure how it would all work. I am thrilled with it! This was a test for future sewing exploits. I am still tweaking the process and have not washed it yet and am curious and excited to see what happens. I plan to make test other shapes, patterns and variations.  As I do more with it, and use different fabrics, I will keep you posted.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca  

It's Pattern Review Sewing Bee Time Again.

I have once again entered the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. Every week, if we advance, we are given a surprise challenge with several days to complete it. It is a fun and stressful contest with fun prizes along the way. I am terribly competitive with myself, so a contest like this is always a character building experience. 

The first project is to sew a fitted blouse with set-in in sleeves. It must not be made from a knit fabric and not be of the pullover style. I was indecisive about what to make so I made two blouses.  One is definitely a traditional blouse, while the other is a bit more dramatic. 

Love the cuffs on this!

I made covered buttons and placed them horizontally for visual interest. 

I like the side slit and curved hem.

This top is a combination of patterns. For the body I used McCalls 5597 

and the sleeves of Simplicity 6110. If this top had fit the qualifications, I would have made it completely and the pants and skirt too!  Aren't they all darling?

Simplicity 5597

Now, the second entry possibility made with more of my African Ankara fabric: 

This one is made by combining Vogue 8866 for the full flounce and Simplicity 1425 for the body of the blouse.

 For the sake of the contest, you are to show your inside finishing. I trimmed the neckline, shoulder, and peplum seams with bias tape. For the underside of the flounce, I used a contrast cream colored fabric to add interest when it flips up.

   

 The shaping is achieved with princess seams in front and back darts

I am leaning toward entering the blue and white blouse. What do you think? There are many great entries, so we shall see who advances. Wish me luck :)

Happy Sewing,

Bianca