Ankara Bound Luxe Cuddle Lamb Blanket

My son is obsessed with soft fabrics.  I have had the pleasure of working with Shannon Fabrics for several articles for Sew News Magazine and recently, I joined their brand ambassador team. They are a very generous company and I received several welcome packages with their yummy fabrics. With every delivery, my son wraps himself in the cuddly fabrics to enjoy the softness. Every attempt for me to disentangle him, has been met with reluctance because he constantly wants to be enrobed in them. On more than one occasion, I've had to unravel him from 6 yards of fabric.

When Shannon Fabrics heard that he routinely wears the single-sided fleece garments inside out, to feel the softness, they told me about the double-sided options. They sent him several yards to celebrate his recent birthday.

Top of his list of projects for me to make was a blanket. I decided to make a bound option using Ankara fabric that he selected from my stash. This is a quick and easy project that gives a lot of comfort and character with a little bit of effort.

Here's a quick tutorial

Supplies:

2.5 yards Double-sided Lamb Cuddle Luxe (54/56" x 90")

1.5 yards Ankara fabric or 45" fabric of your choice

Walking foot

A heap of pins 

A sharp rotary cutter

A rotary mat

6" quilting ruler

Iron and board

All purpose thread

If you are buying yardage, the 2.5 yards of Cuddle Luxe is ready to go. If you have more than that you will need to cut it down. I like to lay the fabric on carpet because the fibers keep everything from shifting. Measure 90" down the length of the fabric and cut across the width.

Use a quilting ruler to cut 8 strips of binding the length of your fabric (45") x 6" wide. If you are using wider fabric, you will require fewer strips.

With right sides together and raw edges even, stitch/serge the short ends together, Repeat on all strips, press open if stitched, to one side if serged.

Press .5" on both long sides of the binding. Fold long edges in to meet and press to create a long center crease.

Slide binding under one edge of the fleece so the edge meets the center crease.

Pin through layers of binding and fleece to secure in place. Allow the binding to extend beyond the fleece.

Tuck the binding under so the center seam meets the edge of the fleece. Adjust the corner to smooth the fabric and form a point.

View from backside.

Fold the binding to the front and adjust your corner to create a mitered corner. Pin in place. 

Continue to pin the binding  around the perimeter of the blanket. When you get to the beginning overlap and tuck the fabric ends in place. I pinned the entire perimeter before I began sewing. If your blanket feels too bulky and heavy this way, I suggest you pin then stitch each edge before continuing to the next.

Clear the area to the left of your sewing machine so there is room for the blanket to rest on the table. It can be unwieldy if the blanket hangs in front of the machine. Install the walking foot on your machine. Adjust the stitch length to the longest length. Align the edge of the binding to the edge of the foot and use it as your seam allowance guide. Stitch binding in place. Backstitch at the beginning and end, pivot at the corners. 

Press binding and enjoy!

Happy sewing,

Bianca

Zipper Phobic Snap Clutch Tutorial

I recently received an awesome package of goodies for the Flickr Swap for which I made this pouch. My generous partner sent me all the loveliness seen below.

In addition to the selvedge pin cushion, fabric basket, fat quarters, covered measuring tape, she included two wonderful pencil cases for my kids. These cases were such a hit with my kids! They open with a pull tap and snap closed like a magnet. It is perfect for little hands that fumble with zippers. 

           

I loved them so much I asked my swap partner where she purchased the magnetic closure. I was gobsmacked when she shared that it opens and stays closed using the metal from a hardware store measuring tape!  She told me of a pattern I could purchase, but I immediately knew I could figure out how to make another using her wonderful cases as an example. 

I made my grown-up version of the bag using fabric I received in a care package from a friend. 

Here are the steps I used to make it:

My exterior fabric is a mid-weight home decor variety that did not require interfacing. You may choose to stabilize light-weight fabric for added structure.
Seam Allowance= 1/4 inch

Cut a rectangle of fabric from your exterior fabric and a rectangle of fabric from the lining making the lining fabric 5 inches longer. This will give 2.5 inches on either side of the exterior.

Press a crease down the lengthwise center of the right side of the exterior to mark the center. Make a triangular pull tab from fabric of the lining by cutting 4 triangles. Stitch the pair right sides together, flip and press. Alternatively, you can use 3 inches of ribbon folded in half on each end. With raw edges even, pin to edge of center crease.

For the strap, cut 12x 2 of lining fabric. Stitch right sides together, flip and press. Fold and pin on edge on long side of exterior. (I positioned my strap too low. I suggest you pin yours in place at the top, not where it is pictured). Baste tabs and strap in place.

With right sides together, pin only the short edges of lining and exterior together. Stitch.Turn right side out positioning 2.5 inches on each side of the exterior creating a band. Press.

Top-stitch along the lining band 1/4 inch from edge of exterior fabric. Baste along one long side closing one end of the band creating a casing.

Cut 2 lengths of measuring tape 1.5 inches less the length of the casing. Use scissors that will only be used for this purpose as it will dull your "good" scissors. Tape the edges to prevent injury to you or damage to the fabric over time. Insert tape inside the open end of the casing. Put the curve side out toward the exterior and numbers toward the interior of the bag. Repeat on other side.
 

Fold the bag right side out aligning the top and with raw edges even. Stitch. This will close the other end of the casing. You are almost done and can give the bag a try.

Flip the bag inside out. Stitch the sides again enclosing the previously stitched seam, creating a french seam.

To create a boxed base, pull the bottom corner flat and mark a 1 inch deep line. Stitch. I chose not to trim it down here. The bag is large enough that it will not get in the way when using it.

 Turn right side out and enjoy!

This fun little bag came together fairly quickly. I love the fun of the snappy closure. This is a great project for newbie sewers and those intimidated with sewing zippers. I envision many variations of this bag. A change in fabric and lining options would make this suitable for men, women, and children. Can somebody say for holiday gifts?

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Vintage Tablecloth to Bohemian Style Dress

There are some fabrics you look at and just know what they are meant to be. They speak to you in a voice so loud, you have no choice, but to respond. While at an estate sale last week I had such an experience. I went in search of sewing patterns, notions and fabrics. The sale was promoted as having tons of sewing supplies but, the fabric prospects were less than stellar. I found myself in a room full of crocheted and embroidered holiday themed linens.

I was thumbing through a stack and came across a cream colored crocheted table cloth. It has ovals stitched in adorable groups of four and scallops along the entire edge. 

My cousin over at Bakerchet crochets and I am well aware of the time energy and work that goes into creating such a piece. The price was good so bought it and began to respond to what the fabric was calling me to. I was going to turn this tablecloth into Bohemian style dress or tunic.

I had the pattern for Simplicity 1757 in my stash and needed to figure out how to turn my tablecloth into it while maintaining the scallop details. I used view B as my base for this pattern.

First I folded the tablecloth lengthwise wrong sides together with the scalloped edges even. I wanted it wrong sides together to be certain my stitching lines were on the right side of the fabric. I then marked the center of the what would be the radius (Yes, you do use geometry after high school). Using the center line as a guide I lined up the top of each pattern piece to the fold. I did this to be sure the front and back would be the same length. You will see that the tablecloth extends past the sleeve and bottom hem. 

What you cannot see in this picture is that the front pattern piece was placed exactly like this on the opposite side. I used a disappearing ink pen to trace the top of the pattern on the fabric allowing the top sleeve extend to the end of the tablecloth. There is only one notch on the top so I was sure to mark it well before cutting it out. 

There are stitching lines on the pattern that need to be transferred to the table cloth. I found that those lines created a dress that had more ease than I wanted; it was too loose. If you want yours loose follow them and do not add the back casing, like I did.  For a more fitted dress, follow my steps explained later.

I cut the front and back pieces out along the top and followed the pattern instructions for View B. I used a longer stitch, about 4.0mm and changed my thread to mercerized cotton thread for sewing. This thread is stronger and thicker and I thought it had similar texture to the thread of the crochet.  When I  got to the elasticized  casing step, I repeated it for the back as well. With the excess length in my tablecloth sleeves, I found this step cinched the dress in more and made it less frumpy in back.

For steps 8-12 I used purchased bias tape to finish the neckline. I stitched it to the right side of the neckline, then flipped it to the inside and stitched it again.

Bias tape on the neckline

For the remainder of the steps, here is what I did (the photos show the wrong side of the dress, but this step should be done on the right side.) Using Bira, my custom dress form I pinned the side seams together and marked the stitching line. I took the lines up to just below the armpits.

If you do not have a dress form, you will need the help of a partner. Put the dress on and have your partner line up the edges of your trim or scallops and secure them with pins or clips. Then, have them pin the side seams along your body to suit your fit and pin and mark the seam line on front and back.

Pinning and marking the side seams

Side seams from underarm to dress bottom.

Once marked I took the dress off the form, realigned the stitching lines, pinned aggressively and stitched the side seams. I them stitched the side seams a second time to be certain it was secure. Voila! All done and ready to wear! I am wearing a black (nude ;-p) slip dress underneath.

I really like this dress! It turned out exactly as I hoped it would. If you make one come back and let me know; I would love to see it!

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Making A Felt Stencil for Hand-Sewing

You can buy stencils for your hand-sewing projects or you can learn to make your own.  A blog reader recently asked about my stencil making process and I outline it here.

Supplies needed:

• Microsoft Publisher
• 2 Sheets of 12in. x 18in. Pennant Felt (Can be bought at hobby and craft stores for about $1) This will give you a stencil 24in x 32in in size.
• Stencil image or text of your choosing. If you are unsure of the suitability of your image, print it first and cut the areas to be removed from just the paper. The cut area will be your painted area.
• Spray Adhesive
• Sharp Blade (a rounded tip blade works best, but a straight edge works as well)
• Sewing Machine
• Rotary Cutting Mat

Sew your felt pieces together

At your machine, align the 2 long sides of your felt together and sew using  a zig-zag stitch. Practice and adjust the stitch width until it is wide enough to secure both sides of the felt. Sew twice.

Felt sheets joined using a zigzag stitch

Stitched Felt and stencil image

Prepare your artwork

Open a new Publisher document and choose a custom page size. Adjust the width to 32in and the height to 24in. Insert your saved picture and enlarge it to fill the page dimensions. Check  the "Print Preview" to see that the image does not go completely to the edge of the page. You want about .5in- 1 in. along the entire image.

Go to your "Print Preview" under "File". You will want to print a "Tiled" picture. Adjust the overlap down to 0.000 (there will still be a little there).  Print your image, in fast draft and black and white, you do not need a high quality color image here.

Lay the sheets out and trim the overlap area away on the sheet which will be on top. In this image, you will trim the left overlap on the right sheet.

Tape sheets together and repeat until you have the entire poster joined.

 
You will want your completed stencil to have an uncut border with no shapes. If you have shapes that will extend over the edge do not cut those. Use a marking tool to draw around the shapes you will not cut.

 Use spray adhesive to secure the image to the top of the felt.

Use your Rotary mat as a base and cut out the shapes using a sharp blade. This is a time consuming and at times a tedious process. It is well worth the effort for a stencil you can use again and again and will not break the bank.

 

My cutting tools

Almost done!

Once you are done cutting, examine your shapes to check that you removed all of the felt from your cutting area. Look to the bottom of the point below. There is a bit of felt still left. Trim it away.

Double Check Cuts

Trim shape as needed.

Double check your stitching and resew, if needed. I suggest you hand sew areas that need it and not use your machine. Remember your stencil still has the residue from the spray adhesive (Laura asked a great question in the comments below, check it out)! I did not need to resew any areas on this stencil. If you use an image with smaller shapes, it may be necessary.

All done! Here is my completed $2 stencil next to my purchased $60+ stencil! (Never throwing my money away like that again!)

My completed stencil!

I am now ready to get painting! I hope you found this helpful!

Update: The stencils illustrated here are Alabama Chanin. This post was written when I supported the company. You can read here why I no longer do here. This post is popular and the information is useful for making any stencil you wish, go make something pretty. :)

Happy Sewing,

Bianca