Making Progress on my Alabama Chanin Tank dress

Slow and steady wins the race. Right? I began stitching away at my Alabama Chanin tank dress in February. I was so excited to be creating my version of this dress:

                                          

                           

I cut the eight panels, four top and four bottom and began sewing. I had hoped to have it completed for my anniversary last month, but didn't make the target. I am so impatient! I wanted it done and kept feeling like Veruca Salt from Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, "I want it now!"

In search of a faster project, I got distracted by this, and this, and this. I could have used the time to complete the dress, I know. If you have made a heavily embellished A.C. piece I know you can relate with the desire to have a finished piece! Anyway, I did get some work in on my project and I am happy to say I am half way done! Doesn't B.I.R.A look fabulous pinned into it!

Front on B.I.R.A

Side Panel

When I started stitching the second panel many months ago, I choose to complete the back panel after the first. At the time I am certain I had a rationale for that choice. As I got near the end of the second, I knew why I made that choice then. I was seriously thinking of bailing on the fully embellished dress! I was dreaming of a front only embellishment so I could be done! My past wise self, knew my future lazy, impatient self would want to abandon it. To prevent that, she forced my hand to keep me moving! :) I am happy she did that. I really want this dress and want it to be fully embellished.

 

Detail of the outside negative reverse applique running with stitches

I will be taking a small break from this dress to whip up a couple of faster projects, but I will complete it. We will take a family vacation soon and I plan to pack a panel. 

Until then, I will be distracted!

Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Paisley Border Alabama Chanin Tank Dress with Matching Long Sleeve Bolero

 The other day I was going through my closet looking for something to wear to a silent auction. I don't usually have "Nothing to Wear" days. I have "Oh, I forgot I made that!" days. It happened again! I rediscovered one of the first garments I made once I got hooked on Alabama Chanin hand- sewing. I did not review it or the matching bolero jacket I made to go with it, so here we are.

It is a short length tank dress with a applique border along the lower half of the skirt. For this single layer dress, I used tan jersey fabric as the base and a plum colored jersey fabric for the top layer. It is hand stitched with natural colored button and craft thread.  I did not have an airbrush at the time, and used a spray bottle to apply white paint with the paisley stencil. I used this stencil because I liked it, but also because the large scale stencil could be sewn up quickly.

I can admit now, that my workmanship was not the greatest. I was eager to get it done and did not take as much care as I could have. My stitches were wider than they should be on the applique. The herringbone stitches on the binding on the bolero are stretched too far apart. Those "flaws" did not stop me from wearing this outfit! I hand stitched it, I am going to wear it!

This dress is the large size that I made before losing some weight so it is not fitted to my body/ B.I.R.A dress form as the small/medium I would cut now, should be. I like the extra ease in this dress now that I am smaller. I could see myself making this in the large again if only the lower portion is embellished, but not the complete dress. The single layer of jersey is thinner, so having it not cling works for me. The double layer of a full dress feels better with a closer fit.

On this dress, I did not adjust the low neckline as I didn't get Laura's tip on raising the straps until recently. This low neckline made it necessary for me to cover up with the bolero. I made it with a single layer of jersey cotton and appliqued the wrists. I secured the binding with a herringbone stitch. The bolero is a size large and I think it is too big now. The straps from the dress keep it in place, but I think the smaller size in it would be more flattering when worn.

 

Pattern Description:
Hand-stitched four panel tank dress with long-sleeve bolero from Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing and Design
 
Pattern Sizing:
 
S,M,L,XL I made a size large in this dress.
 
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
 
This specific dress design is a not featured in the book, but the elements I used are. This is the Short Tank dress that I embellished with the paisley stencil that can be made from the book. The bolero is the long sleeve version that I appliqued the wrists with the paisley stencil.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
 
The books give very clear instructions and inspirations for creating multiple garments. The garment construction is not difficult, but it is time-consuming. (Does time-consuming have a negative implication? It is engrossing, time-dependent, addicting, and repetitive.) The garments in the book require a great deal of work and the results appear complex because of the details, but broken down into smaller parts, easy.  
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?     

I love everything about the patterns in this book. The paisley stencil is large so it stitches up faster than some others in the book. With this stencil, you feel like you are making progress especially if you are working with a running stitch. 

I don't like the depth of the neckline in the front and back. They are too low for my style. By raising the shoulder straps by about 2 inches on each side, I get the modesty I require. (I did not shorten the straps on this dress.)  
Fabric Used:
 
Jersey Cotton in Tan and Plum.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
 
I made the tank dress in the short length with not alterations to the pattern.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  

Yes and yes. I plan to make another with an all-over paisley design in hunter green.

Conclusion: Great books and start to an awesome addiction. 

Information regarding my custom dress form and PDF giveaway can be found here

Happy Sewing!

Alabama Chanin Anna's Garden Fitted Tunic

 What is it about summer viruses that are so heinous? We have been going round and round with a bug in our house, and city. Our pediatrician says it is everywhere and we have to let it run its course. So as I, and our kids have been down, I have been hand stitching another Alabama Chanin creation. This time I have ventured into making the fitted tank top from the book Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing and Design.

For this tank, I used a baby blue cotton jersey fabric for the top layer and a lime green jersey cotton fabric for the bottom. I used the lime fabric for the bias binding secured with Slate colored button/ craft thread. The front is a a double layer of fabric and the back is a single layer. I stitched the design on the front only, using the Outside Reverse Applique technique. With this technique you stitch 1/8 of an inch outside the painted and stenciled shapes. When done, you cut the shape out removing the painted parts. 

This is a good project if you do not have an airbrush or if your painted images are less than perfect. You cut that part out anyway, so it does not matter. As a matter of fact, you can probably stencil using a pen, sharpie or crayon (well, maybe not a crayon)! If you have a great airbrush and equally great painting skills, this project might sting a bit. It hurts to toss your fabulously  painted shapes into the trash!
  

Alabama Chanin Fitted Tunic with Short Skirt

For this tunic, I cut the size medium and sewed a 5/8th seam allowance into the shirt when I constructed it. I found that to be the perfect sizing for me. Because I find the neckline too low for my tastes, I took a suggestion from a blog reader to shorten the straps. I fitted it before adding the binding and I took out about 2 inches off the straps. I secured the layers with a running stitch, so it went together really fast. I didn't have to start and stop the stitches as often as in the negative reverse applique.

Anna's Garden Fitted Tunic

Back details

I paired the tank with a modified version of short skirt pattern from the book. I simply added width to the panels and cut it into six panels instead of four. I liked the idea of the extra seams up the front and back so I just fiddled with it until it worked.

Here is my review of the pattern from the book.

Pattern Description:
 
Hand-stitched tank tunic from Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing and Design.

Pattern Sizing:

S,M,L,XL I made a medium with a 5/8 seam allowance.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, in that I followed the instructions. My color choices were my own.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The books give very clear instructions and inspirations for creating multiple garments.
 
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love everything about the patterns in this book. I do not like the depth of the neckline on the pattern, so I raised the straps about two inches.

Fabric Used:

Jersey Cotton in baby blue and lime green.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: 

I only embellished the front of the top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
 
Yes and Yes! 


Happy Sewing!

New Year, New You Embroidery Entry

I have finished my entry for the New Embroidery with Vintage Patterns Flickr group contest! My entry is for the category:  "New Year, New You" We are to choose any vintage embroidery pattern that we feel captures the meaning and spirit of one of our new year's resolutions or something we hope to accomplish this year.

My resolution is to dive into sewing and use my time sewing to produce quality and not just quantity pieces. With that in mind, I choose a pattern that fit that theme to a tee. The pattern is from the Keepsake Transfers Collection from 1980.

I began stitching a little over a week ago in between other projects. I think it came together very well and very fast. I even had to rip a few stitches out when they didn't work like I hoped. As  I shared in this original post, I had another clock option in mind to frame the finished piece. I tried it, but the french knots in her afro were too full to allow the clock to spin. Luckily, I had a clock kit in my stash and instead did this using a dollar store frame and the kit.

I may change the numbers to buttons, but for now, it is finished! What do you think?

New Year, New You Embroidered Clock

Details of the many stitch  types used. Seed, back, stem, split, satin stitches and the french knots.

Detail of the girl in the notions basket Of course she has a delightful curly afro. Represent SISTA! Yup, she knows what time it is! (hahaha)

I am very pleased with her. She will have a very prominent place in my sewing room. If I find the time to organize it... 

Happy Sewing

Utterly, Completely, Totally Obsessed beyond all reason with Alabam Chanin sewing.

A year ago my mother-in-law gave me the book Alabama Studio Sewing and Design. I added it to my amazon wishlist because it was a sewing book and I liked what I saw in the preview. I really had no idea how much I would love the process of slow-stitching  and completely constructing garments by hand from start to finish. Natalie Chanin's design concept uses 100% organic cotton and all hand-stitched and richly embroidered with applique, reverse applique, intricate bead work, ribbon embroidery and various knot techniques. Her designs are available for purchase as customizable garments on her website Alabama Chanin. The garments are made to order and to your specifications. The garments are expensive and at first glance may seem outlandish. If you consider what goes into each piece, you will see why they are worth so much.

If paying $300 for a skirt or $3400 for a dress is too much for you, how about you make your own! She does the fabulously unthinkable thing of giving her fans all the tools to build their Alabama Chanin wardrobe at a fraction of the cost  in her three books. She provides the patterns, the stencil artwork for download, the sewing techniques and inspiration for you to begin the slow and satisfying process.

Alabama Chanin sewing books

I have since purchased the other books and dived in. I have traced patterns, cut stencils, painted fabric, and sewn and sewn and sewn. Here is a sampling of what I have made using her techniques.

With all the details required for her garments, I thought I would start my projects small and began making the uber cute bolero from her third book. I used the spiral applique technique and the herringbone stitch. It was so satisfying to make this and I worn it a great deal last summer.

 

Spiral Bolero front

Spiral Bolero Back

 After constructing the bolero, a few skirts, and a couple of failed projects, I decided to tackle a dress or two. I thrifted some lovely tan jersey fabric from the local Value Village and used some plum jersey from my stash. I used the paisley stencil and tank dress pattern from Alabama Studio Sewing and Design. I made this dress in a single layer and am happy with it because of the Texas heat, but I think I prefer the heft of a double layer garment.

I

Alabama Chanin Paisley Tank Dress

Detail of the skirt

Detail of the herringbone stitch on the neck and arm bindings.

This dress took a month to make and I relished the slow progress as I went along, but boy was I glad I didn't decide on an all over design. I wanted it to be done so I could wear it! I am very happy with the end result and am so ready to move onto the next project.