My Version of the Alabama Full Dress

Don't you just love this dress!

The multiple seam lines, the fitted bodice and flared skirt. I love the denim color of the jersey cotton. What I do not love is the price. It is a whooping $955! Well worth the time and effort I am sure, but as a friend said,  "Where are you going to wear a $1000 dress?" My answer was simple, "Kroger!" Who cares where I am going to wear it? It is gorgeous and I would rather have it and not need it, than not have it need it, right?

While I am not in a position to buy this dress, I have do have the tools to make it. I found McCalls 6504 which seems like a fair match. I am still working on entries for the Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Contest, so I thought this dress would work as my dress component. I want this to coordinate with my other pieces so I am making it using black cotton jersey.

I began stitching the front of the dress following the pattern instructions to match the correct pieces together. This part required some planning on felling the seams. The seams needed to be stitched wrong sides together, then top stitched with the seams felled to the sides of the body.  I did not want my knots exposed so I focused on beginning and ending my threads on the sides that would be felled.

Knot ends to be hidden by the felling of the seam.

 After stitching the front together I trimmed the seam allowance down to about 1/4 inch. I repeated this for the back and pinned it to my dress form.

Trimming seams

After pinning, I see it is too big in the sides so I increased the seam allowance in the sides.

Increasing the seam allowance.

Still too big

Not fitted enough

Even after increasing the seam allowance if felt so frumpy. It was not giving me the look I wanted. I decided to cut the middle front piece in half to add a seam and pull it in even more. That turned into a disaster! When I felled the seam, the symmetry was uneven and it looked awful! What to do, what to do....? I decided to remove the middle front seam all together and it proved to be a great solution.

Once I was comfortable with the fit, it was time for the finishing touches. I added bias binding to the neck and armholes and bound it with a herringbone stitch. I also added a border of grey jersey to the bottom of the dress. I am 5'8 and felt the length was too short for my liking. 

I am glad I did not use my denim jersey to figure this one out. With all of the adjustments I had to make on this dress I would have stressed to much. That said, I am very pleased with this end result.

Front

Back

Bindings

Contrast border

I am excited to make my replica of the Alabama Chanin Full dress in denim when I get some time. In the meantime, I would love to know what you think of this one.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Vogue Jacket made Alabama Chanin style

I have wanted to make a blazer in Alabama Chanin style for a while now. I have been waiting on the perfect pattern and hadn't found it until now. Vogue 8932 has some really fabulous seam lines and look at the curve of the neckline. I think I can work this one up in time for fall.

The details of the back are impressive and I couldn't wait to begin. I purchased some slate grey cotton jersey fabric and used some of it in my beaded sampler. I decided to use the remainder fabric in creating this jacket. My plan was to stitch it up with the seams exposed and adding top stitching. I like the idea of exposed seams felled to the outside. That said, I  haven't made one like this and wanted to have a fall back plan if it didn't work out like I hoped. I decide to stitch it with wrong sides together. That way I have the choice to wear it with the seams felled to the inside if I choose.

I also wanted the jacket to be fitted. That meant winging it and adjusting the size on my custom dress form as I went. My I cut the size 10 and stitched it up using a tip from the Craftsy class, Hand-Embellishing Knit Fabric. I marked my seam allowances before stitching. This really helped me keep the lines straight in this pattern where the lines are key.

  I got to work on it and was making quick work of it.

front only stitched

back stitched, but not attached

Front and back attached.

Love the details of the back

I was having trouble attaching the sleeves. I could not figure out why one sleeve would go in with no problem, but the other was a mess. It would gather and bunch at the middle of the bicep. It is a two part sleeve, so just adjusting the gathers would not solve the problem. 

After a short break I finally figured out the sleeve. I cannot say what the problem was for certain. I am sorry this may not be helpful to you if you make this one. I think my orientation of the pieces was thrown off because I positioned  fabric wrong sides together (intentionally), and didn't mark them (unintentionally). I also think it makes a difference which side of the sleeve you stitch up first. I un-stitched the side I had stitched, flipped it and attached it to the opposite side. That worked! My suggestion to you is to simply mark the wrong and right sides of each sleeve piece before stitching.

Here are the photos of the completed jacket. I love the finished product!

Jacket front

Jacket back

Neckline and binding with the herringbone stitch

Back Neckline

Front binding

Shoulder

 Here is a review of the pattern with the changes I made.

MISSES' JACKET AND VEST: Semi-fitted, unlined jacket or vest has raised neckline, seam detail and shaped hemline. A: front-button closing. A and B: two-piece sleeves. B and C: raw edge finish, seams stitched on right side of fabric, and front snap closing.

Pattern Sizing: (4-12)
I cut the 10 of view B I used larger seam allowances on the sides when I realized it would not be a fitted as I would have liked. Next time I would cut an 8. I wear a 6 in RTW.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes with the exception of my changes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
They were easy to follow. I believe the problem I had with the sleeves was due to operator error.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like: I love the seam lines in the back and the curved lines of the front. I also like that the back hem rises higher than the front.

Dislike: From the line drawings there does not appear to be gathers in the sleeves. There is gathering and they are bulky in front. Because they are two part sleeves I cannot space them out the way I like. After fixing my problem with the sleeve, I still do not like the gathers there; it is not a deal breaker though.

Fabric Used: Double Layer of Slate Grey Jersey Cotton. Slate Grey button and craft thread.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 

• I made it to be fitted my body. I cut my size, to be safe, but ended up using an 1.5 seam allowance in the side  seams (next time I will cut an 8).
•  I used a double layer of fabric throughout. I hand-sewed the entire jacket in Alabama Chanin style. 
• The seams are stitched once, then felled to the inside and top stitched.
•  I omitted the facing pieces and instead bound the front and neckline with a strip of jersey secured with a herringbone stitch.
• I adjusted the snap positions to be sure the front lay the way I wanted.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I like this pattern. I may make it in wool in my regular size and on a machine. I would recommend it for those interested in sewing it in Alabama Chanin style.

Conclusion: I love the lines of this jacket. I am tremendously pleased with the way it turned out. I used my dress form continuously throughout the process of making of this jacket.  The combination of making it fitted and in cotton jersey added a challenge I am not sure I would have overcome otherwise.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

Beaded Alabama Chanin Polka Dot Sampler

Hello, my name is Bianca and I am an addict. All the readers say "Hi Bianca!" In my varied and storied career I have spent some time as an Addictions Counselor, Case Manager, and Group Leader, so I know the signs. I can unequivocally say I am addicted to sewing Alabama Chanin garments. They are beautiful, creative, and wonderfully detailed. I work multiple garments at a time relishing the various techniques required for each. I have many garments cut and queued waiting their turn to be stitched. I have a longer queue of garments I dream of sewing, but have yet to cut. 
I am in constant need of a fix. I was at a doctor's appointment and required to wait. The waiting grew longer and more difficult to endure because I didn't have anything to sew! I kept thinking, I could have stitched four circles by now! Call my name! (BREATHE).  I recall the tools I have been trained to use and I have learned to always have something handy. :)
 

There is a Mini Wardrobe Contest running over on Pattern Review.com. The contest requires participants to complete four garments that must combine (without adding additional garments) to create at least 4 looks. I have entered and plan to  sew a mini Alabama Chanin Wardrobe. I plan to make a dress, a jacket, a top, and skirt to produce the following 4 looks: Dress; dress/jacket; skirt/top; skirt/top/jacket.

The kicker is that I have one month to do it! I know it is insane. I have been working on this dress for almost a year; what am I thinking? In any case, I started mentally planning my entries when the contest was announced. On September 1, I began my sewing of the top entry.

I wanted to work on my beading techniques and decided to  use my top as a sampler. I used the t-shirt pattern from the Alabama Chanin Studio Sewing and Design book. I used my polka dot stencil to add the shapes to a single layer of slate grey cotton jersey.

Polka Dot Stencil

Dots applied.

I got to work on the embellishments. I used red embroidery floss to work reverse back stitches to serve as the foundation of the polka dots. I then used an assortment of seed, chop, bugle, beads and sequins to create various beaded arrangements.

These patterns combined to create this finished top. It is hand-stitched with slate button and craft thread. The seams are felled to the inside and top-stitched. The neckline is bound using a Cretan stitch.

I am satisfied with the outcome of the top at this point. I may add more sequins and beads in the spaces over time. If I get the other entries completed, I may add them before the contest ends! Bahahahaha! What grandiose thinking! I need a meeting!

Happy Sewing!
Bianca

Vintage Tablecloth to Bohemian Style Dress

There are some fabrics you look at and just know what they are meant to be. They speak to you in a voice so loud, you have no choice, but to respond. While at an estate sale last week I had such an experience. I went in search of sewing patterns, notions and fabrics. The sale was promoted as having tons of sewing supplies but, the fabric prospects were less than stellar. I found myself in a room full of crocheted and embroidered holiday themed linens.

I was thumbing through a stack and came across a cream colored crocheted table cloth. It has ovals stitched in adorable groups of four and scallops along the entire edge. 

My cousin over at Bakerchet crochets and I am well aware of the time energy and work that goes into creating such a piece. The price was good so bought it and began to respond to what the fabric was calling me to. I was going to turn this tablecloth into Bohemian style dress or tunic.

I had the pattern for Simplicity 1757 in my stash and needed to figure out how to turn my tablecloth into it while maintaining the scallop details. I used view B as my base for this pattern.

First I folded the tablecloth lengthwise wrong sides together with the scalloped edges even. I wanted it wrong sides together to be certain my stitching lines were on the right side of the fabric. I then marked the center of the what would be the radius (Yes, you do use geometry after high school). Using the center line as a guide I lined up the top of each pattern piece to the fold. I did this to be sure the front and back would be the same length. You will see that the tablecloth extends past the sleeve and bottom hem. 

What you cannot see in this picture is that the front pattern piece was placed exactly like this on the opposite side. I used a disappearing ink pen to trace the top of the pattern on the fabric allowing the top sleeve extend to the end of the tablecloth. There is only one notch on the top so I was sure to mark it well before cutting it out. 

There are stitching lines on the pattern that need to be transferred to the table cloth. I found that those lines created a dress that had more ease than I wanted; it was too loose. If you want yours loose follow them and do not add the back casing, like I did.  For a more fitted dress, follow my steps explained later.

I cut the front and back pieces out along the top and followed the pattern instructions for View B. I used a longer stitch, about 4.0mm and changed my thread to mercerized cotton thread for sewing. This thread is stronger and thicker and I thought it had similar texture to the thread of the crochet.  When I  got to the elasticized  casing step, I repeated it for the back as well. With the excess length in my tablecloth sleeves, I found this step cinched the dress in more and made it less frumpy in back.

For steps 8-12 I used purchased bias tape to finish the neckline. I stitched it to the right side of the neckline, then flipped it to the inside and stitched it again.

Bias tape on the neckline

For the remainder of the steps, here is what I did (the photos show the wrong side of the dress, but this step should be done on the right side.) Using Bira, my custom dress form I pinned the side seams together and marked the stitching line. I took the lines up to just below the armpits.

If you do not have a dress form, you will need the help of a partner. Put the dress on and have your partner line up the edges of your trim or scallops and secure them with pins or clips. Then, have them pin the side seams along your body to suit your fit and pin and mark the seam line on front and back.

Pinning and marking the side seams

Side seams from underarm to dress bottom.

Once marked I took the dress off the form, realigned the stitching lines, pinned aggressively and stitched the side seams. I them stitched the side seams a second time to be certain it was secure. Voila! All done and ready to wear! I am wearing a black (nude ;-p) slip dress underneath.

I really like this dress! It turned out exactly as I hoped it would. If you make one come back and let me know; I would love to see it!

Happy Sewing,
Bianca

The "Perfect" Knit dress

I have had the pattern for "The Perfect Knit Dress" in my stash since 2010 and just got around to making it. In fairness, I was pregnant, then I gave birth, so it was waiting in the wings until a more suitable time. This dress, in my mind was good candidate for nursing access and hiding post baby belly. My son is turning 2 in a few weeks and I still hadn't made the dress!

I have been working on my sewing discipline, finish what I start, sew what I love and all that. I finally decided to make myself a perfect knit dress. I purchased stacks of wonderful fabrics at an estate sale in my neighborhood a couple of months ago and had some viable candidates to make McCalls 5752.

The dress came together in two evenings, a long time for machine sewing for me. The instructions were so detailed I spent most of the time disregarding the "tips". I am sure they are helpful to some, but I found they slowed me down. The construction of the midriff took as long as sewing the rest of the dress. I edge finished the seams with my serger. I serged and folded the hems of the sleeves and skirt bottom. I am 5 feet 8 inches and this skirt brushes me knees when hemmed. I only hemmed it the depth of my four-thread serger. If you want it longer keep that in mind.

One of the great things about having a custom to my body dress form is that I can post pictures of completed garments without having to put on lip gloss. Here is BIRA the photos of the completed dress.

Bira wearing the "perfect" knit dress.

Dress back

Front of dress bodice

Side panel gathers

Back right. Notice the extra fabric at the top.

Detail of the back collar

The back ripple is not that bad when worn.

 
Here is my review of this pattern:

Pattern Description:
Dresses A,B,C,D have gathered, wrapped bodice, gathered self-lined midriff, A-line skirt and sleeve variations. A&B have gathered shawl collar and extended overarms; C&D have gathered shoulders, choice of sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:
8-14 I cut size 10 of view B

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  
Yes.


Were the instructions easy to follow?   
Yes they were, but I thought they were too wordy. I found myself asking "Is this really necessary?" on the midriff portion especially.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the collar and midriff gathering. I didn't like that the second front and back midriff lining created a third layer of fabric around the stomach. Who wants that!? I omitted the "lining" on the midriff.

I am not happy with the gathers in the back. It buckles a bit in the back despite my following the directions.

Fabric Used: 
A double knit I purchased at an estate sale for a buck a yard.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I omitted the midriff lining as I thought it would add too much bulk in the midsection.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will not make this one again. This one is distinct enough for me not to want two of them. I also have other wrap dress patterns to try.

Conclusion:
I like it okay. It has nice features, but the billing of this as the "perfect" knit dress is a bit of a let down. If the back panel came together without a hitch, I would have liked it better. I know it sounds silly, but words have power. 

Happy Sewing,
Bianca