Playing Around With Bias Strip Applique Again

So, I was stumbling over my spools of bias trim wondering what my next project with them would be. I loved the skirt I made for Little Miss and decided I wanted one for myself.

This time, I decided make mine a bit different and used out of print McCalls 4457 pattern as my base.

I cut the pieces for cotton in my stash. I chose fabrics I would likely not use for anything else because they would be covered by the bias strips.  After sewing the long seam, I drew lines 1" apart and applied the strips 1/4" from the the edge of the strip. For this skirt, I only sewed one end of the strip down allowing the other to hang free. I began sewing at the bottom of the skirt allowing the succeeding strip to overlap the one before. 

I sewed past the edge of the fabric and serged them down when they were all done. 

I even like the stitching on the flip side.

Overskirt and underskirt

I got to this point of the construction and did not know what to do with the upper portion. I thought going in the opposite direction would be interesting so I changed direction. It was distracting to look at so I unpicked it all. I decided to continue on the same path as before using the color from the bottom.

I joined the underskirt to the outer skirt allowing it to be lined with wrong sides together. I installed an invisible zipper and applied facing to the waistband.

The last thing to be done was the hand-sewing of the hem. I slip-stitched the entire length of it by securing it to the lining. This was a tedious, but worthwhile task to not have any stitches show on the outside. 

For a project that I started without a complete vision, I am very pleased.

This skirt by the numbers:

✂ Base fabric: 3 1/8 yards 

✂ Rows of bias: 54 

✂ Shortest length: 2.5" 

✂ Longest length: 47"

✂ Total length of bias: 47 yards. 

✂ Length of hem to hand sew: 5.5 yards 

I love the lines of the bias and the texture it gives. The unfinished edges will weather with time, wear and washing. I am excited to watch this fall apart in the best way.

The completion of this shirt coincides with the PR Skirt contest so I have entered it. We will see how that goes.

I have yards and yards of these colors of bias as well as green and blue still. I am excited to see how I use them next.

Happy Sewing,

Bianca

Houdstooth Bow Bum Pants with Invisible Zipper Instructions.

While going to a meeting at church, I spotted a woman in the parking lot wearing a fantastic pair of pants. I had to know more and ask her about them. I made a u-turn and parked to get a closer look. It happens to me a lot, but I felt kinda silly accosting a random woman on the street to talk about her clothes. As I got closer and the person turned, I realized I knew her. Luckily, she is in the in my Sewing for Starfish Kenya Journey Group and knows I am sew crazy. She was wearing a wide leg pant in a multicolored chevron print. They were adorable and I decided I needed a pair.

When I returned home, I immediately searched my stash to find a pattern I could use to create my version. I found a retro Butterick 3272 pattern. I love that this pant is made from a one piece pattern with a back zipper. It also has a casing for elastic in the band. I was not excited element, but I knew I could work around that feature.

I do not have the chevron fabric similar to those of the inspiration pants in my stash so I am shopping around for the perfect fabric. In the meantime, I decided to make a muslin with fabric I had on hand. I had some extra houndstooth fabric leftover from this dress,  and I thought it would work. It is a double knit with just enough stretch to move while keeping its shape.

The pattern instructions were super easy to follow and called for the installation of an invisible zipper. Every time I install one, I have to pull out my instructions to refresh myself on how to do it. I decided to include my steps here for my future reference and yours.

Pin right side of open zipper to the right side of fabric one fabric opening. in this case the right side.

Using your regular zipper foot stitch zipper in place to secure it.

Attach your invisible zipper foot. This is a universal foot you can purchase at any fabric store and attach like your other feet.

Position your zipper teeth in the right side grove and stitch.

When you get close to the zipper pull, keep your needle down and raise your foot to close the zipper. This allows you to sew to the end of the zipper.

Look how close to the teeth it gets.

Repeat the steps on the opposite side.

Voila! All done!

After installing the zipper, I continued construction on the pants. I discovered that they have a higher than expected waist. Additionally, because of my fabric choice and size, I did not need the elastic casing. I fit the pants and had a flash of inspiration! Why not use the casing to add some pizzaz to the back of the pants! I threaded a purchased sequin ribbon tie through it and tied a bow in the back.

B.i.r.a wearing the bow back pants.

Side view.

Full back view

I think this is super cute! For someone with just a little on the back step, I think the bow adds some fun interest. I like that I can change the tie for a pop of color. I can also remove it altogether to wear it flat as seen here in another peplum cardigan  I made using Mccalls 6844. The review for it is here.

So, this began with a quest for some funky chevron pants and turned to these fun Houndstooth Bow Bum pants. I am very pleased with the fit and ease of construction. I will likely lower the waistline and depending on the fabric, omit the zipper altogether when I make the inspiration pants.

Be sure to check back for the chevron pants update.

Happy Sewing,
Bianca


 

Review of Vogue 1312

I fell in love with Vogue 1312 and had to make it! I loved the full seamed skirt, and an opportunity to tackle my sewing nemesis, the invisible zipper and lining. Turned out this was a great project for giving the appearance of difficulty, but was surprisingly easy to make given the impact of the finished dress.

Vogue 1312

Here is my review submitted to PatternReview.com:

Pattern Description:
From the pattern envelope: Pullover dress has close-fitting, self-lined bodice, raised waist, seamed skirt, stitched hem and invisible side zipper.

Pattern Sizing:
Muti-sized pattern: B5 (8-10-12-14-16) and F5 (16-18-20-22-24) I cut my dress in a size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The Vogue instructions were easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the unique skirt of this dress. It is easy to put together, but there are no bust darts in the bodice which I missed. (I feel like I could have made the 12 everywhere but the highest point of my bust. I feel that darts may have helped. I am a nursing mom, so that is probably more a function of my body and not the pattern.)

Fabric Used:
I used a cotton/ poly blend for the dress. It was a denim colored broadcloth that I bought on sale at Joann's fabric.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and Yes!. Even though it is a unique dress, I wouldn't mind making one in a knit without the zipper in a smaller size. I am 5'8, so I think I would add about 5 inches to make it a maxi dress. I am also thinking of converting it to a skirt.

Conclusion:
Great dress to sew and wear. The zipper installation was super easy as were the instructions for the lining.